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Wednesday, September 21, 2011

The Future of Home Building



In 25 years,
a new house won’t look like a spaceship, but appearances
can be deceiving

The Future of Home BuildingBY ROGER YEPSEN
The future isn’t what it used to be—not when it comes to forecasting how houses will be built. In the past, Homes of Tomorrow showcased the gee-whiz technology of the moment. Reinforced concrete or steel or plate glass or plastics would deliver us to a better life. We had Mies van der Rohe’s minimalist boxes, Bucky Fuller’s Dymaxion Living Machine, the all-metal Aluminaire House, and Philip Johnson’s fishbowl-as-home. In the 1950s, when Monsanto built its 30,000-lb. plastic House of the Future in Disneyland, Walt Disney suggested that Tomorrowland’s technological wonders could help to foster world peace.
As we move into a new millennium, Walt’s hopefulness sounds almost quaint. Homes of Tomorrow no longer seem to grab the public’s attention. Today, the best-known futuristic home is probably the Jetsons’ goofy space pad. We’ve lost the sense that home building can be a revolutionary means of improving society.
Even the future of home building itself is in question. We have fewer acres ripe for suburban development. Real-estate prices are escalating beyond the reach of many families. Traditional building materials are becoming scarce and expensive. Energy is an enormous concern: witness the record-high cost of oil, a nonrenewable resource whose supplies are finite and whose global demand is increasing. With even the way we build houses under scrutiny, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that design is going to be a big concern.
You’d feel at home in the future
Most consumer items play up technological bells and whistles, but our homes tend to conceal them. “We still like a house that looks like a house,” says Sarah Susanka, an architect whose Not So Big House gospel has gotten a great deal of attention. No matter where building science takes us, the home of the future probably will be packaged in a familiar, cozy form, not in the shape of a bubble or dome or Modernist slab. In part, this may be a reaction to the gangly solar homes of the 1970s, which tended to be overwhelmed by their good intentions. Similarly, A-frames, yurts, and domes haven’t aged well in the public’s eye. Forward-looking architects and builders still are forced to reckon with clients who would rather live in a Leave It to Beaver colonial than an envelope-stretching marvel.
Forward-looking architects are forced to reckon with clients who would rather live in a Leave It to Beaver colonial.
Another factor behind the slow evolution of home design is the reality of 77 million retiring baby boomers. According to a recent survey, an overwhelming majority of this white-haired tide will choose to grow old in their present homes.
Accordingly, the home-building industry can be expected to show more interest in homes that enable living in place, according to Andy Kochera, senior policy analyst with the AARP’s Public Policy Institute. These homes will incorporate many senior-friendly features, such as single-floor living, excellent task lighting, and wheelchair-level appliances, switches, and counters. Another potential barrier for older occupants is dealing with the sophisticated appliances and systems that the future certainly will bring. Robert Hodder, senior policy adviser on transportation and livable communities at AARP, predicts that because this generation of homeowners is defined more clearly as a special market, a broad range of products will be designed with them in mind.
Why bother forecasting the future?
It’s fun to speculate about the home of the future, but what’s the point?
Winston Churchill said, “We shape our homes, then our homes shape us.” And Frank Lloyd Wright boasted he could prove it, claiming he could design a dysfunctional house that would dissolve the marriage of any couple unlucky enough to live in it.
Building new homes and remodelling old ones make up one-fifth of the U.S. gross domestic product. It often is said that housing starts can lift the United States out of a recession.
Heating and cooling our homes consumes 13% of U.S. energy, an expense that may become unaffordable for many households.
In a recent study, 8 out of 10 contractors predicted that their biggest headache in years to come would be a shortage of skilled carpenters.
McMansions or shoeboxes?
Although the colonial, the Cape, the Victorian, and the bungalow seem to be with us for the foreseeable future, it’s less clear if these homes will come in small, medium, large, or jumbo. Houses expand and contract like binge dieters. For now, they keep growing even though the average family is getting smaller. In 1950, new houses offered just 290 sq. ft. per family member; by 2000, that figure had swollen to more than 800 sq. ft.
An unfortunate result, says Environmental Building News editor Nadav Malin, is that advances in energy conservation tend to be canceled out by increases in house size. An often-repeated prediction is that homeowners (and the builders and architects who serve them) eventually will come to their senses and realize that bigger isn’t necessarily better. Smaller homes not only are cheaper to build and live in, but the savings also can be put into finer materials and craftsmanship. It remains to be seen if this revelation will come about only when big houses become forbiddingly expensive.
It’s not difficult to trim excess square footage from a design. But if houses shrink, architects will have all the more reason to break out of the traditional boxy assemblage of rooms, says Jean Rehcamp Larson of Rehcamp Larson Architects in Minneapolis; they will need to create “spatial experiences.” Varying ceiling heights, placing windows on at least two walls of each room, providing easy access to the outdoors: These are some of the strategies that will allow homes to grow small graciously. “Builders have tended to flatten things out,” says Larson. They think in terms of floor plans rather than freely exploring varied levels and ceiling heights. “But AutoCAD has the potential to help builders design in three dimensions. And 3-D modeling allows clients to see what their spaces will be like so that they may be less hesitant to accept these designs.”
Green houses of every colour
Just how green will our future be a generation from now? To date, our strides have been short of remarkable. “In conscience, we must mark the end of the era of substandard housing that is cheap to build but expensive and wasteful to maintain,” wrote renowned timber-framer Tedd Benson. Even crediting Benson with being ahead of his time, it’s disappointing to note that his words were published 25 years ago and are seldom heeded.
While contemporary sustainable homes often may look like the house next door, their design is based on forecasts of our actions on a world that doesn’t yet exist. Virginia architect William McDonough calls the failure to consider the future a “generational tyranny.” For example, what will be the impact of extracting enough petroleum to manufacture an asphalt roof that has an expected life of 30 years? And how about the environmental consequences of disposing of that roof? The life-cycle cost of building materials increasingly will shape
how building materials are chosen. Vinyl is now the most popular siding because of its low cost, ease of installation, and minimal maintenance, but the long view favors other alternatives. McDonough speaks of the “cradle-to-cradle” model of designing with the goal of reusing components of worn-out or obsolete products, rather than junking them or recycling them into a less-valuable form.
Does wood have a future?
If you invite someone to envision the house of the future, chances are the place won’t be made of 2x4s. But ask the same person to conjure up the house of their dreams, and it’s likely that wood plays a role, and not just in token touches, like a scrap of burled walnut on the dashboard of an expensive car.
Wood feels good, smells good, can look better with age, and has a lot going for it from the green point of view. It is sustainable (as long as it is harvested responsibly), healthful (it doesn’t outgas toxins), and relatively durable (if maintained). Compared with other commonly used siding materials, it requires the least energy to produce and involves the least total embodied energy over its lifetime. On top of that, wood potentially has the lowest environmental impact. When a house has come to the end of its useful life, the wood components may live on in another structure—the cradle-to-cradle scenario—as when oak barn beams live on capably in a second or even a third building.
In the green scheme of things, builders also can save the expense, pollution, and energy costs of shipping by using locally produced materials. In looking for native species of wood for buildings at the Center for Maximum Potential in Texas, co-director Pliny Fisk was able to make use of mesquite, a wood best known for flavoring grilled food. Mesquite is too twisted to serve as saw logs, but it can be sawn into small blocks for parquet floors. “If you stick to your region,” says Fisk, “you understand things better.”
Even on a local level, though, as wood becomes pricier, conventional lumber increasingly will give way to engineered products: LVLs, roof trusses, and wall panels, as well as plywood. Just a decade ago, engineered I-joist flooring was used in only 20% of new construction; that figure is now approaching 50%. Engineered wood can be made with relatively little waste, using trees that traditionally are overlooked in favor of awe-inspiring forest giants.
As for traditional clapboard siding, don’t count it out. According to the USDA Forest Service Forest Products Laboratory, horizontal lap siding will be with us for years to come. It does a good job of keeping out the rain, and it has the look that vinyl siding strives to mimic. This isn’t to say that wood can’t be made more durable. Sam Williams, supervising research chemist with the lab, says, “The next generation of siding materials will probably be various forms of wood/plastic composites,” most of it arriving at the site with a factory finish.
Concrete, steel, and dirt
The future of wood-frame construction is far from secure. Steel framing may make dramatic inroads if lumber prices spike. Pulte Homes, the second-biggest builder in the United States, recently began using webbed-steel joists in its manufactured homes. Concrete wins green points for durability and for making use of such potential waste products as the ash residue from coal-fired power plants. Autoclaved cellular concrete may become a household term if this material (also known as ACC) catches on. A mix of portland cement, lime, sand or recycled ash, and water, ACC has a closed-cell structure that makes it lightweight, allows it to be cut to size, and even adds a bit of insulation value. ACC panels can have a timeless look that belies their unusual makeup. Jeannie Babb Taylor, CEO of SafeCrete, an AAC manufacturer, says the material has the potential to be cast with integrated detailing. “Quoins, keystones, arches, and carvings will become the norm,” she predicts.
The redemption of the manufactured home
For centuries, the job of fabricating dwellings has been carried out by hand in a highly visible, sweaty, noisy, and somewhat hazardous process. It is a tradition-bound dance that has changed remarkably little in the past 150 years. “You wouldn’t drive a Ford Model T,” says Nebraska builder Fernando Pagés Ruiz, “but you live in one.” Innovations have been restricted largely to substituting one material for another, rather than taking an evolutionary step forward. True, the stick-built process has been tweaked in recent years to cut costs and to increase energy efficiency, but William McDonough sees this cautious approach as minimizing the bad rather than seeking bold new answers. “We are perpetuating the wrong system,” he contends. Instead, he favors designing houses that can accept new technologies easily as they become economically attractive.
Manufacturing promises to provide the paradigm shift required to dislodge the industry from its antiquated ways. The image of factory-built shelter has been tarnished by the legacy of cheaply built, disposable mobile homes. But change is well under way. While 90% of conventional homes were stick-built 25 years ago, that figure has dipped below 70% as panelized construction has built momentum. The advantages of prefabrication are clear and persuasive.
Tolerances and workmanship are closer in the factory than in the field, meaning less waste. Building a typical single-family home in the field generates an astounding 8000 lb. of leftovers destined for a landfill. Rising energy prices favor prefabs because panels are potentially more airtight than stud walls. Also, standardization allows suppliers from around the country to compete, bringing down costs and stimulating innovation.
The implications are enormous, according to Kent Larson, principal research scientist at MIT’s architecture and planning school and director of the college’s Open Source Building Alliance. He predicts that technology companies and other firms from outside the home-building industry largely will have captured the market by 2015. Beyond that, large nationwide firms will be able to afford to keep current with state-of-the-art practice, and even to invest in new technologies. Their size also will allow them to tell suppliers just what products they need, such as specifying entire wall systems.
Finally, prefab homes require little or no on-site skilled labor from the shrinking pool of capable framers and carpenters. A crew of semi-skilled installers or assemblers can do the job, points out Larson. And if a single supplier provides the home’s utility core, their won’t be the need for a stream of subcontractors arriving in their pickup trucks and getting in each other’s way.
Redesigning the design process
The popular notion of factory-built homes is that they roll out on an assembly line, as identical as toasters. But if MIT’s Kent Larson has his way, prefabrication will allow architects and even their clients to customize homes in a revolutionary way.
Here’s the projection. Dozens of competing suppliers around the country will produce a great array of standardized components, which then can be combined in almost countless ways. To allow prospective buyers to view these components and reconfigure them into the home of their dreams, architects will develop an Internet-powered “design engine.” This program will guide buyers through the design process in much the way that a real architect might. Then, after coming up with their design, the buyers will “tour” a virtual model to see if it suits them. In this way, Larson says, architects will be able to influence the design of modestly priced houses that traditionally haven’t benefited from their professional attention.
Modified concrete as the perfect material? The scarcity of wood and the need for more energy-efficient houses may drive builders to materials such as autoclaved cellular concrete. Extremely lightweight, the concrete mix can be cast into blocks or panels, is insectproof and energy-efficient, and can be cut with a circular saw. 
Larson calls this approach mass-customized rather than mass- produced, and he points out that consumers already may be familiar with the process, having specified the options for a Lexus car or a Dell computer.
For now, most manufactured homes strive to look absolutely tra- ditional, as if to conceal their humble birth in a factory. But the constraints imposed by a set inventory of prefabbed components may have a liberating effect on design. “People say that manufactured houses have no style,” says Jean Rehcamp Larson. “But I like many of them. There is a sense of rigor, a discipline about them. They’re really intriguing, and they still allow for individual expression.” As architects develop a new manufactured aesthetic, we may find that homebuyers begin warming up to the clean, industrial look.
Choreographing a more elegant construction
The usual way of piecing together a house is clumsy—“insane,” as Kent Larson puts it—and is problematic when designing for maximum energy efficiency. Joseph Lsti-burek of Building Science Corporation in Massachusetts cites the wasteful example of carefully crafting a well-insulated, airtight house and then having an HVAC subcontractor install a conventionally sized system that’s too beefy for the job. According to the Department of Energy’s National Renewable Energy Laboratory, a home’s energy needs can be slashed by as much as 50% to 70% if the architects, contractors, and tradespeople work in an integrated way.
Open building is one way of ensuring that the design and construction processes are coordinated. As explained by Stephen Kendall, professor in the urban-planning department and director of the Building Futures Institute at Ball State University, open building “isn’t a technical idea, it’s an organizational idea.” It considers the home’s major systems individually as they will function over time, anticipating the service life of each as well as the likelihood that owners will want to make changes—turning two bedrooms into one when the kids leave home, for example.
The design of an open-built house anticipates the need to repair or upgrade these systems by keeping them “disentangled,” a term used by timber-framer Tedd Benson. One system can be worked on with-out interference from the rest.
Open building is a way of inoculating houses against becoming obsolete as new and improved technologies reach the market. Virginia architect William McDonough gave an example to a Sierra Club forum on energy policy. We can “prepare our buildings now for photovoltaics so that when they’re cost effective, we’re ready to put them on. One of the big problems with design is that people don’t anticipate these things.”
Going high-tech without getting weirded out
No one knows exactly how technology will affect the design of the home. But all indications are that the house will be a terrifically busy place. Digital technology is making it possible for more people to work at home, to shop on the Internet, to pick up college credits online, to do banking and read the local paper, to be entertained, and to grow old gracefully. The home also likely will generate at least some of its own energy, making it still more independent from the outside world. Zero-energy homes are being built now, as evidenced by the article that begins on p. 102 in this issue. Mark Ginsberg, deputy assistant secretary of DOE’s Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, says we should shoot for homes that are net producers of electricity, generating 20% above their energy needs.
Solar remains a best bet for on-site energy production, although the technology suffered a case of the hiccups in the 1970s. Clunky, faltering systems were tacked onto houses with less than convincing results. Although solar- generated electricity is far cheaper today than in that era, photovoltaic juice still costs two to four times that from coal or gas. As nonrenewable resources become scarcer and state and federal incentives come into play, though, PV power will look more attractive. Also, lenders increasingly will allow homebuyers to fold the cost of photovoltaics into the mortgage, making it easier to commit to incorporating PV units with a new home. PVs look more attractive, too. Silicone-wafer panels are slimming down. Still less obtrusive is the newer “thin film” technology that can be applied to the home’s skin and even windows and skylights so that the entire structure is available to generate power.
A new generation of “smart” appliances might perform still better by communicating with the world outside the household. William McDonough suggests that the home’s electrical feed could transmit information as well as kilo- watts, alerting air conditioners of an impending heat wave so that they could precool at night. He even foresees that appliances might be able to search for cheap electrical energy during off-hours and then store it for later use.
Lenders increasingly will allow homebuyers to fold the cost of photovoltaics into the mortgage.
Photovoltaics are looking better all the time. Thin-film, high-efficiency solar panels that can be integrated into a house’s structure will increase consumer demand, which banks and local governments will fund with energy-related subsidies.
Neighbourhoods for the new millennium
Sustainable houses will flourish only in sustainable communities, believes Illinois developer Perry Bigelow, whose homes are legendary in the industry for their energy efficiency. And our suburbs have failed to provide the services—and the neighborliness—that many homeowners are looking for. The boomtown approach to development, practiced by builders since the close of World War II, has got to go. That’s clear to people both within the industry and those taking a critical look at it from other fields.
The community of Amelia Park, Fla., sprang up just a few years ago, yet it looks almost eerily well-established, with mature trees shading front porches and even alleys that serve the garages in the backyard. There is a mix of houses, big and modest; cottages; row houses; and in a throwback to small-town America, apartments above shops.
Amelia Park is one of the new communities laid out according to the tenets of what has been called the new urbanism and traditional neighborhood development. Starting from principles laid down by the Florida architecture firm of Duany Plater-Zyberk & Co., these large-scale developments attempt to counter suburban sprawl. Housing is clustered, which serves both to allow setting aside open space and to make it possible to reach neighbors, parks, shops, and work places on foot. The quiet, leaf-shaded streets serve as social spaces, having been planned in a way that prevents cars from threatening pedestrians and bicyclists. New-urbanist communities are exploring “traffic-calming” strategies such as speed bumps, rumble strips, narrowed sections of road, and gateways.
Emily Talen, associate professor of urban and regional planning at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, says that living more compactly doesn’t have to be a bitter pill. We stand to gain “much better access to services,” she says, “and much higher densities of daily-life needs within easy reach. If you look at places like Seaside, Fla. [the first new-urbanist community], you realize that people are willing to pay a very high price to live in very small places.” Compactness involves more than scaling down rooms. Good design is critical: “Americans will have to become much more knowledgeable about the basics of good design. It will be a good time for architects and homebuilders who have these skills.”
Densely settled, well-planned towns will be easier to serve with new public-transit lines, which tend to be unfeasible when people are scattered thinly and randomly over a wide area. Just as bungalows sprang up along trolley routes a hundred years ago, tomorrow’s communities can be fostered by the speedy light-rail networks now making a comeback in a number of metropolitan areas. Alternatives to cars will become especially crucial to the aging baby-boomer generation, who may be isolated in their homes if they no longer are able to negotiate high-speed freeways safely (or legally). A lack of transportation options has been found to cause older people to drop out of community life, says AARP’s Robert Hodder. The result may be depression, mental decline, physical deterioration, and alcohol abuse.
Another variation on urbanism is cohousing, which combines the appeal of traditional homeownership with the advantages of living in a shared community. Although cohousing communities can be started by a developer, true cohousing is designed with the involvement of the future residents.
Typically, each household has its own living room, dining room, and kitchen, and shares a common lounge, meeting rooms, recreational facilities, and play spaces for kids. There also is likely to be a shared commitment to green values. “Most communities have some level of sustainable living written into their mission statements,” says architect Mary Kraus, who lives and works in a Massachusetts cohousing complex.
Housing and the law
Thomas Jefferson believed that homeownership was key to the health and wealth of the nation. Two centuries later, the laws of the land continue to ensure that homes will be safer, more efficient, and affordable for most Americans. After World War II, the first flush of suburbs was stimulated in large part from FHA and VA loans. The current tax exemption on the interest portion of home mortgages has been called the biggest federal housing subsidy of all.
The future will hold other incentives and types of aid as well. By requiring a certain percentage of lower-priced properties, new laws will guarantee that buyers with modest incomes won’t be shut out of communities in which builders might offer only high-end homes. As described by Randy Udall, head of the Community Office for Resource Efficiency in Aspen, Colo., this lower-income incentive acts as a “subsidy” that builders have to provide to be allowed to sell especially profitable mini-mansions.
After a lapse of 20 years, the recently passed federal energy bill offers tax credits for domestic-solar applications. It’s predicted that states will follow with similar incentives. But laws also can slow the rate of positive change. Architects and builders may run into restrictive codes as they pursue new methods and technologies. Similarly, mortgages either can fund innovation or frustrate it. Recently, the lender Fannie Mae began offering energy-efficient mortgages to coax people into frugal energy habits. Energy-sparing options can be financed up to 5% of the home’s overall value.
Community statutes often state a minimum square footage for houses. In an interesting reversal, some jurisdictions have begun setting a maxi- mum square footage. This restriction helps to ensure that a community won’t exclude buyers with lower incomes, and it also avoids what has been called the “mansioning” of a streetscape with homes that overwhelm their dinky lots. Also, most communities have zoning laws that segregate residential neighborhoods from commercial centers, increasing reliance on the automobile. These laws will have to be amended if new neighbor-hoods are to be pedestrian friendly.
An old idea that fights urban sprawl. To make communities more pedestrian friendly and to give public transportation a boost, future developments may look more like villages that have grown over time, built with varied building types that are America’s small-town arche-type.
The future, without the shock
In architectural writing about what’s around the corner, the word “explosion” comes up a lot. And the phrase “tipping point” is used to get across the idea that home building is on the cusp of cataclysmic change.
Maybe. Keep in mind that concepts are easier to construct than objects that require scaffolds or cranes. And judging by an open-built MIT/Ben- sonwood prototype now under way, the future will arrive peering out through multipane windows and wearing a gable roof. “I don’t think the gable roof is going anywhere,” says Jean Rehcamp Larson.
Stephen Kendall, one of the pioneers of open building, was asked not long ago if someone who stepped into an open-built house would be aware of the fact. “Oh, I hope not!” he said with some emphasis.


Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Collecting the Evidence on Countertops

Cooking and trying out new, bold cuisines at home has seen a huge surge since cooking shows (main offender: Top Chef) have begun to dominate television programming. Thus, it is only natural that people would want to focus on home improvement projects in their kitchens, turning them into laboratories where they can experiment with recipes.

The first thing that comes to mind when undertaking a remodeling project in the kitchen is the countertops. Whereas cabinets are often the face of your kitchen, countertops are where all the work gets done; following the metaphor, countertops are the body of the kitchen whereas the refrigerator would be the brain. Okay, enough with wordplay…down to business.






·      Wood/Butcher Block: Maple and oak are the most popular materials in this situation and they look gorgeous. It is easy to maintain their inherent smoothness, as they can be easily sanded and resealed. These types of countertops are very easy to clean, but they can be damaged by water and can stain without proper care. In addition, they are prone to scratches and cut marks, the degree of which depends on where you order them.

·      Stainless Steel: Stainless steel allows for a very modern, industrial look that often conveys discipline and precision. Again, these are very easy to clean and are not sensitive to heat, unlike wood. They are, to be honest, a bit pricey and can be especially noisy, especially if you live with sensitive sleeper. Stainless steel countertops also can dent and are very easily scratched by knives.

·      Ceramic Tile: This is a great option, especially considering the relative inexpensive cost of a tile project. There’s also a very “Mom’s kitchen” feel to a tile countertop. There is a slight issue with unevenness and easy damaging, but these are relatively minor considering how easy these are to clean, not to mention the innumerable amount of choices you have in color and texture. Lastly, they handle heat very well.

·      Laminate: Another particularly inexpensive choice. Laminates, made of plastic-coated synthetics, come in a wide range of colors to suit your personal style, are incredibly easy to clean and maintain, and are also remarkably durable. That being said, if you do chip or scratch laminate, it is often going to be there for good and front edge choices can run you a pretty penny, if you are at all particular.

·       Granite: Prices are dropping quickly on this option and it is a viable choice when it comes to remodeling. They are essentially permanent, extremely hard to damage, need very little maintenance with new sealers, and are immensely attractive to homebuyers. Make sure you get a good contractor on this job, however, as a lousy installation is the only thing that can really botch granite countertops. Try not to cut on it, as your knives will dull. On the flipside, granite holds up to heat and there are literally thousands of color choices.

·      Soapstone/Concrete/Engineered Stone: Soapstone has a rich, classic look and is smooth to the touch. It is ostensibly stain resistant but it takes a bit of effort in the way of maintenance, needing regular applications of mineral oil. If you have the income, concrete is a good alternative, as it is heat and scratch resistant, offers decorative finishes, and boasts a unique look. Most cracking or problems with porousness can be easily fixed. Similarly, you could go with engineered stone, which is a bit more expensive, but is resistant to stain and acids. They also require very little care.

·      Marble/Solid Surface: The aesthetic value is extremely high with marble. These surfaces also handle heat very well and are basically waterproof. Then again, they can be pricey, are prone to stains, and need periodic resealing. For a good alternative, look into solid surface, which are stain resistant, seamless and offer an array of colors. The only big flaw is that solid surfaces are a bit sensitive to heat. As with granite, be sure to get a good contractor with good standing with this option, as installation is a key component.

If you’re going DIY home improvement with this, best of luck, but this is the sort of project that even if you were to take it on by yourself, you would want to consult with a professional contractor or service provider. Putting in countertops are one of those projects that, if not done right, isn’t worth doing. So, be smart about it and think about what you really want from your kitchen. My favorite kitchens tend to have wood countertops, not only because of all the positive uses, but also because of the homey, almost rustic look they exude. There’s warmth to wood that is impossible to replicate. When it comes to the kitchen, however, everyone has a different opinion of how it should look and what should be done in there.

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Preventing Moisture Problems in Bathrooms


Preventing Moisture Problems in Bathrooms
A poorly designed bathroom is no better than a leaky roof.
BY MARY JO PETERSON
As a veteran kitchen and bath designer, I’ve created my share of glamorous bathrooms, complete with oversize showers, giant soaking tubs, whirlpools, saunas and the like. I wish I could say that all of my clients come to me for the bathroom of their dreams; sadly, a lot of them show up at my door after water leaks and humidity have rendered the bath of their dreams unusable. Today’s bathrooms unleash copious amounts of moisture, all of which must be carefully controlled, or the results can be devastating (can you say mold?).
Although I’m glad to have the business, I want my work to last, so I’m always alert to improvements in products, design and construction that address these issues. Following are a few of the strategies that I use to ensure that none of my dream baths ever become someone else’s nightmare.
THE BATH OF YOUR DREAMS SHOULD NOT BECOME A NIGHTMARE
Complicated bathrooms require careful design, but as long as moisture control is accounted for during every step in the process, even the most ambitious creation can expect many years of useful service.
-Exterior bathroom walls must be able to dry
-Cold-climate wall assembly dries to the exterior In regions where interior humidity levels are typically greater than those on the outside, a vapor barrier is placed on the interior surface of the wall, while permeable sheathings are used on the exterior.
-Hot/humid-climate wall should dry to the interior
-In regions where exterior humidity levels are typically greater than those on the inside, the vapor barrier goes on the outside of the wall, while permeable sheathings go on the inside.
-Ventilation must be effective and easy to use.
-Shower controls are offset for convenience and water containment.
Wall systems are designed to dry.
Antisweat valve mixes hot and cold water to prevent toilet-tank condensation.
Siding Building paper or housewrap 
Foil-faced sheathing (provides vapor barrier)
Unfaced insulation
Gypsum board with latex paint
Drying to interior
Siding
Building paper or housewrap
Permeable sheathing
Unfaced insulation
6-mil poly vapor barrier
Gypsum board
Drying to exterior
Plumbing lines belong indoors
If plumbing lines have to be located along exterior walls, the best way to maintain an impermeable vapor barrier (and to ensure that the pipes won’t freeze) is to frame a nonstructural “water” wall for pipes inside the exterior wall.
Placing water controls closer to the door (rather than centered on the shower head) makes them easier to use and lessens the likelihood of water escaping from the shower.
Seal all gaps to keep moisture in its place
To prevent moisture from escaping a humid bath environment and condensing within walls, floors or ceilings, every penetration should be sealed with a long- lasting, flexible sealant such as polyurethane foam.
Polyurethane foam sealant
Drill holes for pipes 12 in. oversize to allow for placement of sealant.
Polyurethane foam
Use the proper wall assembly for the climate
Today’s tight construction methods yield big dividends in terms of comfort and energy efficiency, but they don’t dry out like the drafty walls of old. To prevent trapped moisture, exterior bathroom walls must be designed carefully. In certain climates, a properly installed vapor barrier can be a valuable part of that design.
Assuming all other aspects of moisture control are handled correctly, the main influence on the location of the vapor barrier is climate. Moisture tends to migrate from areas of greater (or warmer) concentrations into areas of lesser (or colder) concentrations. In a heating climate, such as New England where I work, a vapor barrier is placed on the interior of wood-frame walls and ceilings, and permeable exterior sheathings are installed to allow any moisture that gets into the wall cavity to dry to the exterior. In a cooling climate, however, the op- posite might be true. Wall assemblies in general and vapor barriers in particular are controversial subjects. Consult a building science expert in your area to find out what might work best for you.
Leave no draft unsealed
Because most moisture that enters framing cavities is airborne, air leaks present signifi- cant opportunities for moisture to build up behind walls or under floors. Common spots for drafts include rough-ins for electrical, plumbing or mechanical systems; drains for tubs and showers; and cutouts for recessed lights. My policy is that any penetrations in the floor, wall or ceiling must be sealed with polyurethane foam, silicone sealant or some other appropriate material. My subcontrac- tors make sure that any holes they cut in the subfloor are large enough to allow for at least 14-in. thickness of flexible sealant around the pipes (detail 2 above).
Recessed lighting presents another draft problem. Conventional fixtures are way too porous for use in a bathroom. To avoid filling the space above with moisture, recessed fix-
tures located in insulated ceilings must be air tight and carry the IC-rating, which indicates that they are designed to be covered with in- sulation. A better solution is to place recessed lights within soffits or dropped ceilings. From my designer’s standpoint, a well-framed soffit creates interesting sightlines and avoids any penetration into unheated spaces.
Locate showers and tubs on interior walls, if possible
The best solutions from a designer’s stand point don’t always agree with those of a building scientist. These experts tell me, for example, that tubs and showers should never be located along exterior walls. Unfortunately, I don’t always have a choice.
Having done my first bath designs on the Connecticut shoreline—where winter winds off Long Island Sound can freeze pipes in short order—I would never take the risk of placing plumbing pipes within exterior walls. If I were stuck with an exterior-wall location, I would frame a second wall for pipes just inside the exterior wall that would provide room for proper insulation and for the creation of a healthy wall system.
In addition to the placement of the shower, the location of the shower fixtures can have a big impact on moisture control. I like to off-set the water controls closer to the shower door to make them easy to reach without opening the door all the way. I also try to make sure that the shower head is not easily directed at the door opening.
Glass doors provide better water containment than shower curtains, but access can be a problem. Shower curtains can be weighted to hold them to the floor for better water containment. Another simple solution for keeping water inside a curtained shower is to fashion a dam in each corner using a bead of silicone placed at a diagonal.
Keep recessed lights inside conditioned airspace
Although recessed lights that carry an IC-rating can be placed in an insulated ceiling, an airtight installation is extremely difficult to achieve. A better solution (if ceiling height permits) is to install these lights inside a soffit or a dropped ceiling.
One-piece tub enclosures are boring but leakproof
When it comes to the materials to be used for a tub (or shower) enclosure, there are almost no limits as to what is available: tile, glass block, solid surface, cultured marble, plastic laminate, acrylic and gel-coated fiberglass, to name a few. If I listened only to building scientists, the choice would be clear: one-piece tub units. As long as the drain is installed properly, the framing is correct and the floor is supported adequately, experts tell me that the chance that one of these units will ever leak is minuscule.
Most of my clients want more pizzazz, and most of the time they choose tile. Unlike one piece shower surrounds, tile is not impermeable to moisture—largely because of the grout. In my experience, however, as long as tile is installed properly over a cement board substrate, a tile enclosure will be fine. Applying tile directly over the moisture-resistant gypsum (green board) is asking for trouble.
Solid-surface materials such as Corian also require a proper substrate, but they eliminate the need for maintaining grout. Glass block is a good choice for a custom shower because it’s less permeable to moisture than tile. Glass block is also available in many shapes and textures and includes structure and finish in one complete package.
Accessories and built-ins for custom showers also must be designed carefully. Soap and shampoo cubbies must not compromise the water or vapor barriers, so I never design these niches to be set into an exterior wall. I also make sure that the horizontal surfaces of cubbies as well as shower seats are sloped to shed water back into the shower.
Double-seal vulnerable joints to make sure all the water stays in the tub.
The weight of a tub full of water puts great stress on caulked joints. If the tub unit does not have a lip that extends up the wall, use 50-year silicone sealant to caulk the joint where the backerboard meets the tub, as well as the joint where tile meets tub.
Tubs and whirlpools require flexible sealant
Stand-alone tubs generally have fewer moisture problems than showers because they contain water better. The weight of that water can be a problem, however, as can frequent splashing, such as children like to do.
The constant filling and emptying of a tub demands flexible seams where the sidewalls meet the tub. My installer uses only the highest quality silicone sealant. In addition to caulking the joint where tile meets tub, he caulks the joint between the backerboard and the tub.
Wall surfaces surrounding a whirlpool tub that doesn’t get heavy use simply can be painted green board. Whirlpools release a lot of steam, however, so if I know that the client has big plans for the appliance, I insist on the same type of wall assembly I’d use for a shower.
Integral countertops make trouble-free vanities
Undermount lavatories are popular these days because they offer clean lines and easy cleanup. Their only drawback, however, is a vulnerable seam that’s hidden beneath the countertop. For clients who don’t mind poking their heads under the sink a couple of
times a year, this seam is not a problem. Some clients want their baths to be as maintenance- free as possible, however. For them, I recommend an integral basin/countertop made from a seamless material such as cultured stone. Integral countertops can be ordered with or without a seamless backsplash. Occasionally, the client requests a tile backsplash to be installed over an integral countertop; in these cases, I specify that the countertop be formed with a 12-in. tall cove on which the tile will rest. The cove eliminates the seam against the wall where water can collect and eventually escape.
Don’t sweat about the toilet
The plumbers that I use add extra blocking around the toilet’s drain line to stiffen the sub floor. This practice helps to ensure that the wax ring seal will never be broken (for more on proper toilet installation. Properly installed toilets don’t leak, but they might sweat. Condensation on the toilet tank typically occurs during the sum- mer months when the water in the tank might be 20°F or even 30°F cooler than the air. This seemingly harmless occurrence can result in some serious problems: Moisture drips onto the floor and seeps beneath the floor covering, and eventually, the subfloor starts to rot.
Air conditioning is one way to prevent condensation; if that’s not an option, you can retrofit an existing toilet with a prefabricated toilet-tank insulation kit, or install an anti sweat valve in the water-supply line. (An anti sweat valve adds a small amount of hot water to the toilet’s water supply. Adjustable models can regulate the hot-water supply during those months when it’s not needed.)
If purchasing a new toilet, consider one with factory-installed tank insulation or a pressure assist system that stores water in a pressurized plastic tank within the porcelain tank.
An open window is not a ventilation system
Toys such as steam showers, whirlpools and soaking tubs dump huge amounts of moisture into the air. Even a perfectly designed bathroom will suffer if it doesn’t have an adequate ventilation system. While some codes still consider an operable window sufficient ventilation, that’s asking for trouble, as is trying to get by with a cheap, noisy fan. On every one of my bath designs, I specify a high quality, ultra-quiet fan that’s correctly sized to the space.
Don’t just dump it in the attic
The necessary components of an effective bathroom exhaust system include a high quality, quiet fan unit, and a short run of insulated ducting that directs water vapor out of the house before it’s able to condense.
This programmable timer-switch ensures that the fan runs
long enough and often enough to clear the air.
FIXTURES AS WELL AS ROOM DIMENSIONS DETERMINE WHICH FAN UNIT IS NECESSARY
Exhaust systems are rated in cubic feet per minute (cfm) of air moved, and the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) offers a formula as a starting point for calculating the minimum ventilation need- ed for a bathroom: cubic feet of room x 8 (air exchanges per hour) / 60 (minutes) = required cfm rating.
Another easy guide is to figure 1 cfm per sq. ft. in bathrooms that are smaller than 100 sq. ft.; in bathrooms that are larger than 100 sq. ft., allow 50 cfm per standard fixture (shower, tub, toilet, steam shower), plus 100 cfm per hot tub.
Oversize bathrooms can benefit from multiple intake points connected to one remote fan. Typical locations of exhaust inlets are near moisture sources, such as the whirlpool, shower or steam shower and toilet area, as well as near closet or storage areas that might be exposed to mois- ture. With this type of system, it is important to check the cfm at each location.
The installation of a ventilation system is critical. The duct system should take the shortest, most direct route to the outside; but even a short run of ductwork can be troublesome. To prevent trapped condensation, I use insulated, rigid pipe, and I make sure that the pipe has a slight pitch, either to the outside or back to the fan.
In tight, modern houses, an adequate supply of return air must be provided in conjunction with the ventilation. This can be as simple as making sure there is at least an inch of air- space under the entry door or as complicated as providing a passive makeup-air duct.
Even if it’s perfectly installed, an exhaust system won’t get the job done unless it is used. I strongly recommend to my clients that they leave the fan running—with the door closed to make sure moisture cannot escape into neighboring rooms—for at least 30 minutes after taking a shower or using a whirlpool. Placing the ventilation fan on a timer makes following this advice easy. An even easier solution is to connect the fan to a humidistat that will automatically turn the fan on and off according to the humidity levels.
Baths need regular maintenance
After eliminating unnecessary moisture problems, constant vigilance is the key to maintaining a dry bathroom. Indoor air humidity and temperature must be controlled throughout the home. What might be a comfortable condition for the homeowner might not be ideal for the home. Relative humidity between 40% (winter, generally) and 65% (summer), with a constant temperature around 68°F, is best. Frequently inspect visible caulk joints and redo them when they first show signs of degrading. At least a few times a year, get a good flashlight and summon the courage to poke around in the basement, crawlspaces and attic, looking for any signs of moisture leaks, musty odors or nasty bugs. 



Monday, September 12, 2011

Kitchen Flooring Choices

Kitchen
Flooring
Choices
From old standbys like hardwood to new contenders like laminates, the choices are daunting. We evaluate the pros, cons and costs.
BY NENA DONOVAN LEVINE

In the world of building materials, genetic engineering is a constant. The products may look traditional, but underneath their skins lie bonded, laminated, foamed, recycled and reconsidered cores. Nowhere is this ferment of product development more robust than in the flooring business. Floors have been to the lab and come back smarter, stronger and so much easier to care for. Even linoleum, the flooring a previous generation mopped and waxed on a regular basis, is back in an easy-care formulation. New products such as snap-together laminates have the old-time look of fumed oak, or not. You also can find Italian laminates the color of mint gelato, with a sprinkling of burlap for a nonskid surface. So what’s best for a kitchen? Consider appearance, practicality, comfort, “green-ness,” antiallergen properties, resale value, mainte- nance, individuality, ease of installation, ease of removal, longevity, historical suitability and price.
LAMINATES: THE LOOK OF THE FAMILIAR, AND MORE
Beyond wood grain. Fiber laminate takes laminate flooring into the realm of color and texture that doesn’t mimic anything. Made by ABET Laminati, the flooring gets its random surface pattern from recycled coffee-bean bags.
In Europe, our source for many a savvy design tip and trend, homeowners often take their kitchen cabinetry with them when they move. More and more often, they are taking their kitchen floors as well. Snap-together laminate, a removable, portable flooring, has interlocking edges that join the pieces together into a single unit.
Like engineered woods, laminates are multiply sandwiches. The visible layer is a photographic image topped with a tough, clear layer of melamine that takes the wear. Products range from 9/32 in. to 1/2in. thick. Laminate should be installed over a flat sub-floor, which can be either a layer of plywood or even an existing vinyl or tile floor, as long as it is in sound condition. Laminate flooring is a rising star. It has loads of positive features and few minuses. In just five years, it has captured 4% of the entire flooring industry.
Glued seams
Snap-together seams
Some glue, some don’t. The tongue-and-groove edges of most laminate floors require a bead of glue to join them. Newer styles, however, feature interlocking tongues and grooves that snap together.
As interest and demand grow, so too do the number and quality of products. Most laminate floors mimic wood or tile. But other patterns and textures are emerging. ABET Laminati, which produces the ParqColor series of wood pattern laminates (45choices), also makes Fiber Floor, a textured product with a matte finish. Available in 12 muted shades, the slightly rough surface results from the burlap-bag fibers used in its manufacture. The sacks previously held coffee beans, so there are some bean bits in the flooring, which add flecks of darker color.
Seems perfect for the kitchen floor. Installations in the North American market used to require that planks be glued together. Now 20% of the laminate-flooring products in this market are glueless: They snap together with clever locking mechanisms tight enough to keep out liquids. These products, more than those requiring glue, target the do-it-yourself market. Even systems requiring glue use it only to adhere one tongue-and-groove plank to another, never to the subfloor. A laminate kitchen floor is meant to float atop the subfloor, not be glued or nailed to it. Some manufacturers produce several quality levels. Get the best you can for your kitchen.
Planks and strips. Common wood patterns in laminate floors are the look of planks and strips. A layer of high-pressure laminate on the back of a flooring plank acts as a vapor barrier to reduce moisture absorption. Vapor-barrier backing
PROS
Easy, quick installation, portable, no damage to substrate, low to moderate cost, comfortable underfoot, no fading or yellowing, scratch resistant, simple maintenance, damaged planks can be replaced, DIY installation
CONS
Limited style choices, no refinishing, can dent, fiberboard core problematic for some allergies
Plank-floor lookStrip-floor look
COST
Typically $3-$6 per sq. ft., material only; profes- sional installation, including underlayment, is about $3 per sq. ft.
WOOD PRODUCTS
Yes, products. You still can get good old wood, which is known in the trade as solid wood. But the category has grown to include flooring products referred to as engineered wood and prefinished flooring. I’ll talk about each type here. No matter which one you choose, it’s hard to go wrong with a wood floor in a kitchen. The cost is moderate, and a wood floor is a resale plus.
SOLID
Solid means the same piece of wood, and nothing but that wood, for the entire thickness of the floorboard. A typical wood floorboard is 3/4in. thick and 2 1/2in. wide, with a tongue-and-groove profile to make it interlock. Red and white oak still rule, together comprising more than 90% of all of the solid hardwood flooring installed nowadays. But plenty of other species are well suited to kitchen flooring, such as ash, maple, beech and cherry. The Hardwood Council has a terrific Web site that illustrates all the readily available North American species of hardwood. Then again, if you live in an older home with wood floors, they might not be hardwood at all. Many older homes have wide-plank pine floors, which you may want to choose if you’re creating a vintage look. Here in Connecticut, white-pine plank flooring up to 12 in. wide costs $3 per sq. ft. Beyond regular sweeping and vacuuming, the floor’s finish dictates maintenance specifics. A practical choice for this hard-traveled floor is multiple coats of a water-based urethane finish. A solid-wood floor can last the life of the structure.
Prefinished solid wood. Carlisle Restora-tion Lumber offers familiar hard and soft-woods with a tung-oil finish. From the top, antique oak, heart pine, maple, white oak and antique chestnut.
PREFINISHED
Prefinished means that a multistep surface-finishing program was completed prior to the flooring’s trip to the retailer. The finish on Harris-Tarkett’s engineered flooring, for example, is an acrylic urethane formulation containing aluminum-oxide granules, which have been added to toughen the finish. Mohawk Corporation adds ceramic material to strengthen its finish. The technology is—no kidding— rocket science.
Even if the drawbacks discourage you, take advantage of manufacturers’ Web sites, as well as that of the National Wood Flooring Association. Their Web site includes a list of answers to frequently asked questions about wood floors and a state-by-state listing of flooring installers.
WOOD: WARM AND WONDERFUL, SOLID, PREFINISHED AND ENGINEERED
Oak feels right in an Arts and Crafts home. Flat-sawn red-oak floors and quartersawn red-oak cabinets are a time-less combination.
ENGINEERED
Engineered wood flooring is a laminated product with three to five layers. The top layer is clear, top-quality wood. It represents a growing percentage of the flooring market, and it often is sold prefinished. Every major manufacturer has several product offerings, combining different features, price points and warranties. Engineered wood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood. So if your kitchen is in a potentially damp location, such as a room below grade, consider using engineered instead of solid-wood flooring. Some engineered-flooring products are impregnated with acrylic. When dyes are added, the results are rousing. Perma Grain Products makes its timeless 3 series in juicy colors. It should be ordered with PenThane (urethane) finish, or it will water-spot. The product cannot be refinished.
A sandwich works fine in a kitchen.
Engineered flooring is composed of a sandwich of thin layers of wood
laminated together. This is Harris-Tarkett’s artisan cherry, in a 1/2in. by 5-in. tongue-and-groove profile.
Prefinished engineered wood
Plywood core
Acrylic-impregnated flooring. Perma-Grain Products makes engineered flooring in nine species and more than 20 colors. From the top, maize, pistachio, tomato, plum, tangerine and indigo.
PROS
Warmth, beauty, relatively comfortable underfoot, enormous range of species and price, good resale value, new finishes require less maintenance, can be refinished many times (solid), dimensional stability (engineered), speed of installation, immediate use of room (prefinished)
CONS
Finish maintenance required, subject to dents, expands/contracts with humidity (solid), limited choice of stain colors/sheens (prefinished), no overall finish coat applied to “seal” seams (prefinished), limited number of refinishings (engineered)
COST 
Materials only Solid wood: $4-$10 per sq. ft. Engineered flooring: $8-$12 per sq. ft. Acrylic-impregnated flooring: $8-$12 per sq. ft.
Your room is ready now. Prefinished engineered lumber goes down in a hurry and doesn’t require the messy steps of sanding and applying multiple layers of finish. Wide, narrow, light, dark. Engineered flooring comes in a huge variety of species and several thicknesses. It’s more stable than solid wood, making it a good choice in locations subject to high humidity.
BAMBOO
Bamboo flooring is a hybrid product simi- lar to engineered hardwoods. But it’s not wood: It’s a grass. Bamboo stalks are milled into strips, then reassembled as floorboards. The boards are typically 3/8in. or 5/8in. thick, and have either square edges (on unfinished boards) or micro-beveled ones (on pre-finished boards). Depending on how the strips are aligned, the flooring resembles either quartersawn or flat-sawn hardwood. The unmistakable figure of the bamboo nodes adds a visual interest 
to the “flat-sawn” boards.
Prefinished bamboo is available in two colors, natural and carbonized, and in two sheens, high gloss and matte. The carbonized color shows a lustrous warmth, akin to natural cherry, that would enhance any kitchen.
COCONUT PALM
This newcomer is milled from the dark wood of the coconut palm. Developed by Smith & Fong, Durapalm is a 3/4in. thick, 72-in. long, 3-ply tongue-and-groove floor-board that is 25% harder than red oak. It is free of formaldehyde and VOC emissions.
Durapalm is available both unfinished and prefinished. The latter type uses the ceramic system of embedded particles to prolong finish life, which is warrantied for five years. The edges are microbeveled; the color choices are a medium mahogany and a dark brown. The installation methods are the same as used for other hardwoods, and so are care and maintenance.
Why use it? It has the same benefits as sustainably harvested wood, along with an alluring color, warmth and figure.
RUBBER
This material is gorgeous, but will it work for you? It has some great qualities, and some not-so-great ones. It is manufactured now in a host of heavenly and earthly colors, patterns and textures. But a lack of demand means that manufacturers’ distribution networks aren’t geared to sell most rubber flooring at retail.
Flexco is an exception. Its Repel rubber flooring is formulated to resist grease, and it’s sold in retail stores. Repel is available in 12- in. and 18-in. squares, which can be heat-welded together following installation. Install using their solvent-free adhesive.
PROS
Resilience, durability, insulates, quiet, com- fortable underfoot, traction, low price
CONS
Can be harder to find sources, fewer choices, dull finish, grease/oil can stain
COST
$3-$4 per sq. ft., material only
SOURCES: RUBBER
PROS: BAMBOO AND PALM
Environmentally friendly, warmth, beauty, available prefinished, hard, durable
CONS
Limited colors in prefinished, finish mainte- nance required, limited product choice
COST
Bamboo: $5-$8 per sq. ft. Palm: $8.75 per sq. ft.
SOURCES: BAMBOO AND PALM*
EXOTICA: HARD, SOFT AND SHINY, UNCOMMON MATERIALS UNDERFOOT
STAINLESS STEEL
No surprise that this high-style floor is made in Italy. I understand it’s the flooring choice in at least one showroom there: Ferrari. If it can hold up to cars, it likely will hold up to foot traffic in even the busiest kitchens.
Manufactured in 18-in. sq. and 24-in. sq. panels, each piece of stainless flooring has a raised pattern, all the better to slow skids. A custom underlayment of interlocking rubber squares cushions and guides panel installation. The combined thickness is less than 7 mm.
The steel panels do not attach to the sub-floor; they are screwed to the rubber under-layment with Phillips-head screws (made of stainless steel) in predrilled holes.
PROS
Durable, portable, stylish
CONS
Expensive, cold, glare
COST
$35 per sq. ft., includes underlayment; installation, shipping additional
SOURCES: STAINLESS STEEL
CORK:A NATURAL CHOICE FOR FLOORS


Another ambassador from green land, cork (like linoleum and bamboo) originates from a natural source not endangered by its harvesting. Cork tiles are made of the bark of the cork oak tree, bark that can be peeled off every decade (the trees live to be 150 years old). Frank Lloyd Wright liked cork, and he installed it in houses where it endures today.
It grows on trees. Cork is the thick outer layer of bark that protects cork oak trees in forests near the Mediterranean. Fortunately, it grows back and can be harvested periodically. 
Contemporary cork floors now are sealed with UV-cured acrylic or water-based urethane sealers. Neither water nor oil penetrates the sealer. What’s more, you literally are walking on air: Cork tiles contain 200 million air cells per cu. in.
Traditionally, cork floors have been made from 12-in. sq. tiles, up to 5/16 in. thick, in the familiar honey color. Those tiles are still available, but manu- facturers have broadened their offerings. ContempoCork has tiles in more than a dozen stain colors. KorQinc makes a striped plank in a choice of two color duos, as well as tiles and moldings. AmCork offers cork flooring in more than 30 patterns and colors. And now two companies, BHK and KorQinc, produce cork flooring in a glueless tongue-and-groove plank.
Because of cork’s thirsty, expansionist tendencies, moisture is the crucial concern. In areas with wide variations in humidity, experts recommend installing cork floors at the driest time of year. After installation, cork floors should be finished with the manufacturer’s recommended sealer to ensure that the edges of the tiles or planks are sealed thoroughly. To keep them clean, damp-mop water-based urethane finishes with a water-and-vinegar solution.
SOURCES: CORK
PROS
Resilient, less break-age of dropped items, comfortable underfoot, warm, “green” material, durable, moderate cost, sound and thermal insulator, hypoal-lergenic, simple care
COST
$5-$9 per sq. ft., material only
CONS
Limited color/style selection, can fade, can dent, finish mainte- nance required, characteristic odor
VINYL
Abstract de-signs in hundreds of colors. Made from natural ingre- dients, linoleum comes in subtle patterns that don’t try to mimic anything. Marmoleum’s products also include fancy prefab border strips.
LINOLEUM
What it is: a product manufactured from natural, renewable resources, including linseed oil, wood flour, ground limestone, pigments and resins, and backed by jute fiber. Its components, in combination, have both antistatic and bactericidal qualities.
What it is not: vinyl (PVC).
Vinyl pushed linoleum aside in the 1960s because then it required waxing to keep it looking good, while vinyl didn’t. Today’s linoleum doesn’t need waxing because it comes presealed and also can be resealed.
Vinyl ranges from tame to wild. A perpetual top performer in the kitchen, vinyl is durable and inexpensive, and it’s available in a multitude of colors and patterns.
Vinyl flooring, which bounded into homes in the 1960s, works great in the kitchen and remains a popular choice today.
Hartford, Conn., praises Congoleum’s Ultima line, which comes in 12-ft. widths (the old vinyl standard was 6 ft.). Material width may be a material factor in your kitchen. Ask where the seams will fall.
Armstrong’s new residential-flooring introductions “have added texture to color and pattern as the third element of design,” says Deb Esbenshade, Armstrong’s general manager of product styling and de- sign. The company’s recent sheet-vinyl products resemble stone, tile, concrete and even crocodile. Maintenance: There is some, but not much. As with wood floors, the culprits are outdoor grit and pebbles that are likely to scratch the finish or to become embedded. Sweep, damp mop, and follow manufacturers’ recommendations about cleaning products.
Forbo Marmoleum, $5.50-$8.50 per sq. ft., installed; Armstrong Marmorette, $3.75 per sq. ft., material only
PROS
Resilient, comfortable, enormous variety, tough, wears well, low cost, works in most site conditions, good warranties, simple maintenance, non-absorptive
CONS
Can fade or yellow, pattern can wear off, seams can lift or intrude visually
Ranges from $1.25 to $5.50 per sq. ft., material only
In the United States, Forbo Industries (Marmoleum) and Armstrong (Marmorette) market linoleum for residential use. Marmoleum’s sheet product is 6 ft. 7 in. wide, and its tiles are 13 in. sq. The product is available in more than 150 colors/patterns and 13 borders. Or you can create your own design, to be precision-cut using water-jet technology and inlaid by the in- staller. Armstrong’s Marmorette is produced in 6-ft. wide sheets and is available in 16 colors.
Remember the phrase “ ... wears like iron”? It describes not only some drab garment that probably itched, but also lively linoleum. Maintenance? Be as ecofriendly as the product itself, using a pH- neutral cleaner. Follow manufacturers’ guidelines.
VINYL
Inlaid patterns are consistent throughout the thickness of the material. They last longer than those patterns printed on the top surface only, which can wear off. So inlaid costs more. Products differ mostly in the composition of the top, or wear, layer. The tougher and more resistant, the longer the life expectancy of the product; also, the better the warranty. Many wear layers now are impregnated with aluminum oxide and nylon. At least a dozen companies with high brand recognition provide top products. 
PROS
Environmentally friendly, antiallergen, antistatic, resilient, comfortable, durable, tiles are a good DIY choice, large color selection, simple care
CONS
Pricier up front, seams can intrude visually, harder to find installer
CERAMIC
Mosaic-tile floors that have been excavated in Piazza Armerina, Sicily, are 1,800 years old. How’s that for durability? The Porcelain Enamel Institute groups tiles in categories (I to IV+), indicating increasing durability. Durability is a function of a tile’s hardness, and of the sheen and color
The look of stone without the cost. The latest offerings from manufacturers include stone look-alike tiles that come in a broad variety of colors and sizes. The vitreous choices are harder and less absorbent than the stone they resemble. 
of any glaze. (Light-color glazes are more durable than dark, for example.) Kitchens usually need a group III or higher tile. Choose a tile with good slip resistance. Unglazed tiles are less slippery than glazed tiles. Any tile with a slightly textured surface provides greater traction than a smooth tile. The texture shows dirt less; too much texture, however, inhibits cleaning.
Tiles that mimic stone in their texture and have mottled col- oration are popular now. Many of these tiles are porcelain prod- ucts, fired at temperatures so high that they are vitreous. This process renders them harder than the slate, granite, marble or limestone they resemble. They are extremely dense and absorb little water, meaning you can continue your kitchen flooring out- side the house. And these tiles are made in sizes larger than pre- vious standards, up to 18 in. sq. The larger the tile, the more expansive your kitchen space reads.
Recycling has entered the world of tile. EcoCycle is a porcelain tile made of unfired, reclaimed raw materials, byproducts of Crossville Ceramics’ manufacture of standard-color porcelain tile. Before EcoCycle, these byproducts were discarded.
Care/maintenance: Follow the manufacturers’ specs regarding sealer (type and frequency of application) on the tile you select. Use the recommended grout and seal it. Clean with diluted household cleanser and hot water; rinse thoroughly.
STONE CERAMIC AND STONE
If you value an original more than a copy, consider stone: granite, limestone, slate, soapstone. Stone retains heat (remember those early bed warmers?), making a stone floor
a fine installation over radiant heat or in passive-solar situations. We know it’s durable, and it is low maintenance.
Soapstone sends a worn, venerable message; black absolute granite sends a polished, sophisticated one. Rustic stone tiles
with slightly irregular dimensions will look their best with wider grout lines. Crisply machined stone tiles, such as the soapstone floors from Green Mountain Soapstone, have edges accurate enough to require no grout. Just butt them together. Seal any stone except soapstone. A stone supplier can recommend the best sealer. Maintain your floor with a pH-neutral cleaner but nothing that leaves a soap film, which traps dirt.
PROS
Durability and hardness, enormous variety, simple care, environmentally friendly, no staining or fading, good over radiant heat, moderate cost
CONS
Less comfort-able underfoot, hardness means break-age of dropped items, cold, noisy, grout can stain or crack
MOST VENDORS OF CERAMIC TILE CARRY STONE TILES
Soapstone
Ceramic tile: $1.50-$8 per sq. ft. Stone tile: Typically $5-$16 per sq. ft.
EcoCycle ceramic tile
Slate
Granite
Marble