Collecting the Evidence on Countertops

Cooking and trying out new, bold cuisines at home has seen a huge surge since cooking shows (main offender: Top Chef) have begun to dominate television programming. Thus, it is only natural that people would want to focus on home improvement projects in their kitchens, turning them into laboratories where they can experiment with recipes.

The first thing that comes to mind when undertaking a remodeling project in the kitchen is the countertops. Whereas cabinets are often the face of your kitchen, countertops are where all the work gets done; following the metaphor, countertops are the body of the kitchen whereas the refrigerator would be the brain. Okay, enough with wordplay…down to business.

·      Wood/Butcher Block: Maple and oak are the most popular materials in this situation and they look gorgeous. It is easy to maintain their inherent smoothness, as they can be easily sanded and resealed. These types of countertops are very easy to clean, but they can be damaged by water and can stain without proper care. In addition, they are prone to scratches and cut marks, the degree of which depends on where you order them.

·      Stainless Steel: Stainless steel allows for a very modern, industrial look that often conveys discipline and precision. Again, these are very easy to clean and are not sensitive to heat, unlike wood. They are, to be honest, a bit pricey and can be especially noisy, especially if you live with sensitive sleeper. Stainless steel countertops also can dent and are very easily scratched by knives.

·      Ceramic Tile: This is a great option, especially considering the relative inexpensive cost of a tile project. There’s also a very “Mom’s kitchen” feel to a tile countertop. There is a slight issue with unevenness and easy damaging, but these are relatively minor considering how easy these are to clean, not to mention the innumerable amount of choices you have in color and texture. Lastly, they handle heat very well.

·      Laminate: Another particularly inexpensive choice. Laminates, made of plastic-coated synthetics, come in a wide range of colors to suit your personal style, are incredibly easy to clean and maintain, and are also remarkably durable. That being said, if you do chip or scratch laminate, it is often going to be there for good and front edge choices can run you a pretty penny, if you are at all particular.

·       Granite: Prices are dropping quickly on this option and it is a viable choice when it comes to remodeling. They are essentially permanent, extremely hard to damage, need very little maintenance with new sealers, and are immensely attractive to homebuyers. Make sure you get a good contractor on this job, however, as a lousy installation is the only thing that can really botch granite countertops. Try not to cut on it, as your knives will dull. On the flipside, granite holds up to heat and there are literally thousands of color choices.

·      Soapstone/Concrete/Engineered Stone: Soapstone has a rich, classic look and is smooth to the touch. It is ostensibly stain resistant but it takes a bit of effort in the way of maintenance, needing regular applications of mineral oil. If you have the income, concrete is a good alternative, as it is heat and scratch resistant, offers decorative finishes, and boasts a unique look. Most cracking or problems with porousness can be easily fixed. Similarly, you could go with engineered stone, which is a bit more expensive, but is resistant to stain and acids. They also require very little care.

·      Marble/Solid Surface: The aesthetic value is extremely high with marble. These surfaces also handle heat very well and are basically waterproof. Then again, they can be pricey, are prone to stains, and need periodic resealing. For a good alternative, look into solid surface, which are stain resistant, seamless and offer an array of colors. The only big flaw is that solid surfaces are a bit sensitive to heat. As with granite, be sure to get a good contractor with good standing with this option, as installation is a key component.

If you’re going DIY home improvement with this, best of luck, but this is the sort of project that even if you were to take it on by yourself, you would want to consult with a professional contractor or service provider. Putting in countertops are one of those projects that, if not done right, isn’t worth doing. So, be smart about it and think about what you really want from your kitchen. My favorite kitchens tend to have wood countertops, not only because of all the positive uses, but also because of the homey, almost rustic look they exude. There’s warmth to wood that is impossible to replicate. When it comes to the kitchen, however, everyone has a different opinion of how it should look and what should be done in there.

Preventing Moisture Problems in Bathrooms

Preventing Moisture Problems in Bathrooms

A poorly designed bathroom is no better than a leaky roof.

BY MARY JO PETERSON

As a veteran kitchen and bath designer, I’ve created my share of glamorous bathrooms, complete with oversize showers, giant soaking tubs, whirlpools, saunas and the like. I wish I could say that all of my clients come to me for the bathroom of their dreams; sadly, a lot of them show up at my door after water leaks and humidity have rendered the bath of their dreams unusable. Today’s bathrooms unleash copious amounts of moisture, all of which must be carefully controlled, or the results can be devastating (can you say mold?).

Although I’m glad to have the business, I want my work to last, so I’m always alert to improvements in products, design and construction that address these issues. Following are a few of the strategies that I use to ensure that none of my dream baths ever become someone else’s nightmare.
THE BATH OF YOUR DREAMS SHOULD NOT BECOME A NIGHTMARE

Complicated bathrooms require careful design, but as long as moisture control is accounted for during every step in the process, even the most ambitious creation can expect many years of useful service.

-Exterior bathroom walls must be able to dry

-Cold-climate wall assembly dries to the exterior In regions where interior humidity levels are typically greater than those on the outside, a vapor barrier is placed on the interior surface of the wall, while permeable sheathings are used on the exterior.

-Hot/humid-climate wall should dry to the interior

-In regions where exterior humidity levels are typically greater than those on the inside, the vapor barrier goes on the outside of the wall, while permeable sheathings go on the inside.

-Ventilation must be effective and easy to use.

-Shower controls are offset for convenience and water containment.

Wall systems are designed to dry.

Antisweat valve mixes hot and cold water to prevent toilet-tank condensation.

Siding Building paper or housewrap 
Foil-faced sheathing (provides vapor barrier)

Unfaced insulation

Gypsum board with latex paint

Drying to interior

Siding

Building paper or housewrap

Permeable sheathing

Unfaced insulation

6-mil poly vapor barrier

Gypsum board

Drying to exterior

Plumbing lines belong indoors

If plumbing lines have to be located along exterior walls, the best way to maintain an impermeable vapor barrier (and to ensure that the pipes won’t freeze) is to frame a nonstructural “water” wall for pipes inside the exterior wall.

Placing water controls closer to the door (rather than centered on the shower head) makes them easier to use and lessens the likelihood of water escaping from the shower.

Seal all gaps to keep moisture in its place

To prevent moisture from escaping a humid bath environment and condensing within walls, floors or ceilings, every penetration should be sealed with a long- lasting, flexible sealant such as polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam sealant

Drill holes for pipes 1⁄2 in. oversize to allow for placement of sealant.

Polyurethane foam

Use the proper wall assembly for the climate

Today’s tight construction methods yield big dividends in terms of comfort and energy efficiency, but they don’t dry out like the drafty walls of old. To prevent trapped moisture, exterior bathroom walls must be designed carefully. In certain climates, a properly installed vapor barrier can be a valuable part of that design.

Assuming all other aspects of moisture control are handled correctly, the main influence on the location of the vapor barrier is climate. Moisture tends to migrate from areas of greater (or warmer) concentrations into areas of lesser (or colder) concentrations. In a heating climate, such as New England where I work, a vapor barrier is placed on the interior of wood-frame walls and ceilings, and permeable exterior sheathings are installed to allow any moisture that gets into the wall cavity to dry to the exterior. In a cooling climate, however, the op- posite might be true. Wall assemblies in general and vapor barriers in particular are controversial subjects. Consult a building science expert in your area to find out what might work best for you.

Leave no draft unsealed

Because most moisture that enters framing cavities is airborne, air leaks present signifi- cant opportunities for moisture to build up behind walls or under floors. Common spots for drafts include rough-ins for electrical, plumbing or mechanical systems; drains for tubs and showers; and cutouts for recessed lights. My policy is that any penetrations in the floor, wall or ceiling must be sealed with polyurethane foam, silicone sealant or some other appropriate material. My subcontrac- tors make sure that any holes they cut in the subfloor are large enough to allow for at least 1⁄4-in. thickness of flexible sealant around the pipes (detail 2 above).

Recessed lighting presents another draft problem. Conventional fixtures are way too porous for use in a bathroom. To avoid filling the space above with moisture, recessed fix-

tures located in insulated ceilings must be air tight and carry the IC-rating, which indicates that they are designed to be covered with in- sulation. A better solution is to place recessed lights within soffits or dropped ceilings. From my designer’s standpoint, a well-framed soffit creates interesting sightlines and avoids any penetration into unheated spaces.

Locate showers and tubs on interior walls, if possible

The best solutions from a designer’s stand point don’t always agree with those of a building scientist. These experts tell me, for example, that tubs and showers should never be located along exterior walls. Unfortunately, I don’t always have a choice.

Having done my first bath designs on the Connecticut shoreline—where winter winds off Long Island Sound can freeze pipes in short order—I would never take the risk of placing plumbing pipes within exterior walls. If I were stuck with an exterior-wall location, I would frame a second wall for pipes just inside the exterior wall that would provide room for proper insulation and for the creation of a healthy wall system.

In addition to the placement of the shower, the location of the shower fixtures can have a big impact on moisture control. I like to off-set the water controls closer to the shower door to make them easy to reach without opening the door all the way. I also try to make sure that the shower head is not easily directed at the door opening.

Glass doors provide better water containment than shower curtains, but access can be a problem. Shower curtains can be weighted to hold them to the floor for better water containment. Another simple solution for keeping water inside a curtained shower is to fashion a dam in each corner using a bead of silicone placed at a diagonal.

Keep recessed lights inside conditioned airspace

Although recessed lights that carry an IC-rating can be placed in an insulated ceiling, an airtight installation is extremely difficult to achieve. A better solution (if ceiling height permits) is to install these lights inside a soffit or a dropped ceiling.

One-piece tub enclosures are boring but leakproof

When it comes to the materials to be used for a tub (or shower) enclosure, there are almost no limits as to what is available: tile, glass block, solid surface, cultured marble, plastic laminate, acrylic and gel-coated fiberglass, to name a few. If I listened only to building scientists, the choice would be clear: one-piece tub units. As long as the drain is installed properly, the framing is correct and the floor is supported adequately, experts tell me that the chance that one of these units will ever leak is minuscule.

Most of my clients want more pizzazz, and most of the time they choose tile. Unlike one piece shower surrounds, tile is not impermeable to moisture—largely because of the grout. In my experience, however, as long as tile is installed properly over a cement board substrate, a tile enclosure will be fine. Applying tile directly over the moisture-resistant gypsum (green board) is asking for trouble.

Solid-surface materials such as Corian also require a proper substrate, but they eliminate the need for maintaining grout. Glass block is a good choice for a custom shower because it’s less permeable to moisture than tile. Glass block is also available in many shapes and textures and includes structure and finish in one complete package.

Accessories and built-ins for custom showers also must be designed carefully. Soap and shampoo cubbies must not compromise the water or vapor barriers, so I never design these niches to be set into an exterior wall. I also make sure that the horizontal surfaces of cubbies as well as shower seats are sloped to shed water back into the shower.
Double-seal vulnerable joints to make sure all the water stays in the tub.

The weight of a tub full of water puts great stress on caulked joints. If the tub unit does not have a lip that extends up the wall, use 50-year silicone sealant to caulk the joint where the backerboard meets the tub, as well as the joint where tile meets tub.

Tubs and whirlpools require flexible sealant

Stand-alone tubs generally have fewer moisture problems than showers because they contain water better. The weight of that water can be a problem, however, as can frequent splashing, such as children like to do.

The constant filling and emptying of a tub demands flexible seams where the sidewalls meet the tub. My installer uses only the highest quality silicone sealant. In addition to caulking the joint where tile meets tub, he caulks the joint between the backerboard and the tub.

Wall surfaces surrounding a whirlpool tub that doesn’t get heavy use simply can be painted green board. Whirlpools release a lot of steam, however, so if I know that the client has big plans for the appliance, I insist on the same type of wall assembly I’d use for a shower.

Integral countertops make trouble-free vanities

Undermount lavatories are popular these days because they offer clean lines and easy cleanup. Their only drawback, however, is a vulnerable seam that’s hidden beneath the countertop. For clients who don’t mind poking their heads under the sink a couple of

times a year, this seam is not a problem. Some clients want their baths to be as maintenance- free as possible, however. For them, I recommend an integral basin/countertop made from a seamless material such as cultured stone. Integral countertops can be ordered with or without a seamless backsplash. Occasionally, the client requests a tile backsplash to be installed over an integral countertop; in these cases, I specify that the countertop be formed with a 1⁄2-in. tall cove on which the tile will rest. The cove eliminates the seam against the wall where water can collect and eventually escape.

Don’t sweat about the toilet

The plumbers that I use add extra blocking around the toilet’s drain line to stiffen the sub floor. This practice helps to ensure that the wax ring seal will never be broken (for more on proper toilet installation. Properly installed toilets don’t leak, but they might sweat. Condensation on the toilet tank typically occurs during the sum- mer months when the water in the tank might be 20°F or even 30°F cooler than the air. This seemingly harmless occurrence can result in some serious problems: Moisture drips onto the floor and seeps beneath the floor covering, and eventually, the subfloor starts to rot.

Air conditioning is one way to prevent condensation; if that’s not an option, you can retrofit an existing toilet with a prefabricated toilet-tank insulation kit, or install an anti sweat valve in the water-supply line. (An anti sweat valve adds a small amount of hot water to the toilet’s water supply. Adjustable models can regulate the hot-water supply during those months when it’s not needed.)

If purchasing a new toilet, consider one with factory-installed tank insulation or a pressure assist system that stores water in a pressurized plastic tank within the porcelain tank.

An open window is not a ventilation system

Toys such as steam showers, whirlpools and soaking tubs dump huge amounts of moisture into the air. Even a perfectly designed bathroom will suffer if it doesn’t have an adequate ventilation system. While some codes still consider an operable window sufficient ventilation, that’s asking for trouble, as is trying to get by with a cheap, noisy fan. On every one of my bath designs, I specify a high quality, ultra-quiet fan that’s correctly sized to the space.

Don’t just dump it in the attic

The necessary components of an effective bathroom exhaust system include a high quality, quiet fan unit, and a short run of insulated ducting that directs water vapor out of the house before it’s able to condense.

This programmable timer-switch ensures that the fan runs

long enough and often enough to clear the air.

FIXTURES AS WELL AS ROOM DIMENSIONS DETERMINE WHICH FAN UNIT IS NECESSARY

Exhaust systems are rated in cubic feet per minute (cfm) of air moved, and the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) offers a formula as a starting point for calculating the minimum ventilation need- ed for a bathroom: cubic feet of room x 8 (air exchanges per hour) / 60 (minutes) = required cfm rating.

Another easy guide is to figure 1 cfm per sq. ft. in bathrooms that are smaller than 100 sq. ft.; in bathrooms that are larger than 100 sq. ft., allow 50 cfm per standard fixture (shower, tub, toilet, steam shower), plus 100 cfm per hot tub.

Oversize bathrooms can benefit from multiple intake points connected to one remote fan. Typical locations of exhaust inlets are near moisture sources, such as the whirlpool, shower or steam shower and toilet area, as well as near closet or storage areas that might be exposed to mois- ture. With this type of system, it is important to check the cfm at each location.

The installation of a ventilation system is critical. The duct system should take the shortest, most direct route to the outside; but even a short run of ductwork can be troublesome. To prevent trapped condensation, I use insulated, rigid pipe, and I make sure that the pipe has a slight pitch, either to the outside or back to the fan.

In tight, modern houses, an adequate supply of return air must be provided in conjunction with the ventilation. This can be as simple as making sure there is at least an inch of air- space under the entry door or as complicated as providing a passive makeup-air duct.

Even if it’s perfectly installed, an exhaust system won’t get the job done unless it is used. I strongly recommend to my clients that they leave the fan running—with the door closed to make sure moisture cannot escape into neighboring rooms—for at least 30 minutes after taking a shower or using a whirlpool. Placing the ventilation fan on a timer makes following this advice easy. An even easier solution is to connect the fan to a humidistat that will automatically turn the fan on and off according to the humidity levels.

Baths need regular maintenance

After eliminating unnecessary moisture problems, constant vigilance is the key to maintaining a dry bathroom. Indoor air humidity and temperature must be controlled throughout the home. What might be a comfortable condition for the homeowner might not be ideal for the home. Relative humidity between 40% (winter, generally) and 65% (summer), with a constant temperature around 68°F, is best. Frequently inspect visible caulk joints and redo them when they first show signs of degrading. At least a few times a year, get a good flashlight and summon the courage to poke around in the basement, crawlspaces and attic, looking for any signs of moisture leaks, musty odors or nasty bugs. 

Kitchen Flooring Choices

Kitchen
Flooring

Choices

From old standbys like hardwood to new contenders like laminates, the choices are daunting. We evaluate the pros, cons and costs.

BY NENA DONOVAN LEVINE

In the world of building materials, genetic engineering is a constant. The products may look traditional, but underneath their skins lie bonded, laminated, foamed, recycled and reconsidered cores. Nowhere is this ferment of product development more robust than in the flooring business. Floors have been to the lab and come back smarter, stronger and so much easier to care for. Even linoleum, the flooring a previous generation mopped and waxed on a regular basis, is back in an easy-care formulation. New products such as snap-together laminates have the old-time look of fumed oak, or not. You also can find Italian laminates the color of mint gelato, with a sprinkling of burlap for a nonskid surface. So what’s best for a kitchen? Consider appearance, practicality, comfort, “green-ness,” antiallergen properties, resale value, mainte- nance, individuality, ease of installation, ease of removal, longevity, historical suitability and price.

LAMINATES: THE LOOK OF THE FAMILIAR, AND MORE

Beyond wood grain. Fiber laminate takes laminate flooring into the realm of color and texture that doesn’t mimic anything. Made by ABET Laminati, the flooring gets its random surface pattern from recycled coffee-bean bags.

In Europe, our source for many a savvy design tip and trend, homeowners often take their kitchen cabinetry with them when they move. More and more often, they are taking their kitchen floors as well. Snap-together laminate, a removable, portable flooring, has interlocking edges that join the pieces together into a single unit.

Like engineered woods, laminates are multiply sandwiches. The visible layer is a photographic image topped with a tough, clear layer of melamine that takes the wear. Products range from 9/32 in. to 1/2in. thick. Laminate should be installed over a flat sub-floor, which can be either a layer of plywood or even an existing vinyl or tile floor, as long as it is in sound condition. Laminate flooring is a rising star. It has loads of positive features and few minuses. In just five years, it has captured 4% of the entire flooring industry.

Glued seams

Snap-together seams

Some glue, some don’t. The tongue-and-groove edges of most laminate floors require a bead of glue to join them. Newer styles, however, feature interlocking tongues and grooves that snap together.

As interest and demand grow, so too do the number and quality of products. Most laminate floors mimic wood or tile. But other patterns and textures are emerging. ABET Laminati, which produces the ParqColor series of wood pattern laminates (45choices), also makes Fiber Floor, a textured product with a matte finish. Available in 12 muted shades, the slightly rough surface results from the burlap-bag fibers used in its manufacture. The sacks previously held coffee beans, so there are some bean bits in the flooring, which add flecks of darker color.

Seems perfect for the kitchen floor. Installations in the North American market used to require that planks be glued together. Now 20% of the laminate-flooring products in this market are glueless: They snap together with clever locking mechanisms tight enough to keep out liquids. These products, more than those requiring glue, target the do-it-yourself market. Even systems requiring glue use it only to adhere one tongue-and-groove plank to another, never to the subfloor. A laminate kitchen floor is meant to float atop the subfloor, not be glued or nailed to it. Some manufacturers produce several quality levels. Get the best you can for your kitchen.

Planks and strips. Common wood patterns in laminate floors are the look of planks and strips. A layer of high-pressure laminate on the back of a flooring plank acts as a vapor barrier to reduce moisture absorption. Vapor-barrier backing

PROS

Easy, quick installation, portable, no damage to substrate, low to moderate cost, comfortable underfoot, no fading or yellowing, scratch resistant, simple maintenance, damaged planks can be replaced, DIY installation

CONS

Limited style choices, no refinishing, can dent, fiberboard core problematic for some allergies

Plank-floor lookStrip-floor look

COST

Typically $3-$6 per sq. ft., material only; profes- sional installation, including underlayment, is about $3 per sq. ft.

WOOD PRODUCTS

Yes, products. You still can get good old wood, which is known in the trade as solid wood. But the category has grown to include flooring products referred to as engineered wood and prefinished flooring. I’ll talk about each type here. No matter which one you choose, it’s hard to go wrong with a wood floor in a kitchen. The cost is moderate, and a wood floor is a resale plus.

SOLID

Solid means the same piece of wood, and nothing but that wood, for the entire thickness of the floorboard. A typical wood floorboard is 3/4in. thick and 2 1/2in. wide, with a tongue-and-groove profile to make it interlock. Red and white oak still rule, together comprising more than 90% of all of the solid hardwood flooring installed nowadays. But plenty of other species are well suited to kitchen flooring, such as ash, maple, beech and cherry. The Hardwood Council has a terrific Web site that illustrates all the readily available North American species of hardwood. Then again, if you live in an older home with wood floors, they might not be hardwood at all. Many older homes have wide-plank pine floors, which you may want to choose if you’re creating a vintage look. Here in Connecticut, white-pine plank flooring up to 12 in. wide costs $3 per sq. ft. Beyond regular sweeping and vacuuming, the floor’s finish dictates maintenance specifics. A practical choice for this hard-traveled floor is multiple coats of a water-based urethane finish. A solid-wood floor can last the life of the structure.

Prefinished solid wood. Carlisle Restora-tion Lumber offers familiar hard and soft-woods with a tung-oil finish. From the top, antique oak, heart pine, maple, white oak and antique chestnut.

PREFINISHED

Prefinished means that a multistep surface-finishing program was completed prior to the flooring’s trip to the retailer. The finish on Harris-Tarkett’s engineered flooring, for example, is an acrylic urethane formulation containing aluminum-oxide granules, which have been added to toughen the finish. Mohawk Corporation adds ceramic material to strengthen its finish. The technology is—no kidding— rocket science.

Even if the drawbacks discourage you, take advantage of manufacturers’ Web sites, as well as that of the National Wood Flooring Association. Their Web site includes a list of answers to frequently asked questions about wood floors and a state-by-state listing of flooring installers.

WOOD: WARM AND WONDERFUL, SOLID, PREFINISHED AND ENGINEERED

Oak feels right in an Arts and Crafts home. Flat-sawn red-oak floors and quartersawn red-oak cabinets are a time-less combination.

ENGINEERED

Engineered wood flooring is a laminated product with three to five layers. The top layer is clear, top-quality wood. It represents a growing percentage of the flooring market, and it often is sold prefinished. Every major manufacturer has several product offerings, combining different features, price points and warranties. Engineered wood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood. So if your kitchen is in a potentially damp location, such as a room below grade, consider using engineered instead of solid-wood flooring. Some engineered-flooring products are impregnated with acrylic. When dyes are added, the results are rousing. Perma Grain Products makes its timeless 3 series in juicy colors. It should be ordered with PenThane (urethane) finish, or it will water-spot. The product cannot be refinished.

A sandwich works fine in a kitchen.

Engineered flooring is composed of a sandwich of thin layers of wood

laminated together. This is Harris-Tarkett’s artisan cherry, in a 1/2in. by 5-in. tongue-and-groove profile.

Prefinished engineered wood

Plywood core

Acrylic-impregnated flooring. Perma-Grain Products makes engineered flooring in nine species and more than 20 colors. From the top, maize, pistachio, tomato, plum, tangerine and indigo.

PROS

Warmth, beauty, relatively comfortable underfoot, enormous range of species and price, good resale value, new finishes require less maintenance, can be refinished many times (solid), dimensional stability (engineered), speed of installation, immediate use of room (prefinished)

CONS

Finish maintenance required, subject to dents, expands/contracts with humidity (solid), limited choice of stain colors/sheens (prefinished), no overall finish coat applied to “seal” seams (prefinished), limited number of refinishings (engineered)

COST 

Materials only Solid wood: $4-$10 per sq. ft. Engineered flooring: $8-$12 per sq. ft. Acrylic-impregnated flooring: $8-$12 per sq. ft.

Your room is ready now. Prefinished engineered lumber goes down in a hurry and doesn’t require the messy steps of sanding and applying multiple layers of finish. Wide, narrow, light, dark. Engineered flooring comes in a huge variety of species and several thicknesses. It’s more stable than solid wood, making it a good choice in locations subject to high humidity.

BAMBOO

Bamboo flooring is a hybrid product simi- lar to engineered hardwoods. But it’s not wood: It’s a grass. Bamboo stalks are milled into strips, then reassembled as floorboards. The boards are typically 3/8in. or 5/8in. thick, and have either square edges (on unfinished boards) or micro-beveled ones (on pre-finished boards). Depending on how the strips are aligned, the flooring resembles either quartersawn or flat-sawn hardwood. The unmistakable figure of the bamboo nodes adds a visual interest 

to the “flat-sawn” boards.

Prefinished bamboo is available in two colors, natural and carbonized, and in two sheens, high gloss and matte. The carbonized color shows a lustrous warmth, akin to natural cherry, that would enhance any kitchen.

COCONUT PALM

This newcomer is milled from the dark wood of the coconut palm. Developed by Smith & Fong, Durapalm is a 3/4in. thick, 72-in. long, 3-ply tongue-and-groove floor-board that is 25% harder than red oak. It is free of formaldehyde and VOC emissions.

Durapalm is available both unfinished and prefinished. The latter type uses the ceramic system of embedded particles to prolong finish life, which is warrantied for five years. The edges are microbeveled; the color choices are a medium mahogany and a dark brown. The installation methods are the same as used for other hardwoods, and so are care and maintenance.

Why use it? It has the same benefits as sustainably harvested wood, along with an alluring color, warmth and figure.

RUBBER

This material is gorgeous, but will it work for you? It has some great qualities, and some not-so-great ones. It is manufactured now in a host of heavenly and earthly colors, patterns and textures. But a lack of demand means that manufacturers’ distribution networks aren’t geared to sell most rubber flooring at retail.

Flexco is an exception. Its Repel rubber flooring is formulated to resist grease, and it’s sold in retail stores. Repel is available in 12- in. and 18-in. squares, which can be heat-welded together following installation. Install using their solvent-free adhesive.

PROS

Resilience, durability, insulates, quiet, com- fortable underfoot, traction, low price

CONS

Can be harder to find sources, fewer choices, dull finish, grease/oil can stain

COST

$3-$4 per sq. ft., material only

SOURCES: RUBBER

PROS: BAMBOO AND PALM

Environmentally friendly, warmth, beauty, available prefinished, hard, durable

CONS

Limited colors in prefinished, finish mainte- nance required, limited product choice

COST

Bamboo: $5-$8 per sq. ft. Palm: $8.75 per sq. ft.

SOURCES: BAMBOO AND PALM*

EXOTICA: HARD, SOFT AND SHINY, UNCOMMON MATERIALS UNDERFOOT

STAINLESS STEEL

No surprise that this high-style floor is made in Italy. I understand it’s the flooring choice in at least one showroom there: Ferrari. If it can hold up to cars, it likely will hold up to foot traffic in even the busiest kitchens.

Manufactured in 18-in. sq. and 24-in. sq. panels, each piece of stainless flooring has a raised pattern, all the better to slow skids. A custom underlayment of interlocking rubber squares cushions and guides panel installation. The combined thickness is less than 7 mm.

The steel panels do not attach to the sub-floor; they are screwed to the rubber under-layment with Phillips-head screws (made of stainless steel) in predrilled holes.

PROS

Durable, portable, stylish

CONS

Expensive, cold, glare

COST

$35 per sq. ft., includes underlayment; installation, shipping additional

SOURCES: STAINLESS STEEL

CORK:A NATURAL CHOICE FOR FLOORS

Another ambassador from green land, cork (like linoleum and bamboo) originates from a natural source not endangered by its harvesting. Cork tiles are made of the bark of the cork oak tree, bark that can be peeled off every decade (the trees live to be 150 years old). Frank Lloyd Wright liked cork, and he installed it in houses where it endures today.

It grows on trees. Cork is the thick outer layer of bark that protects cork oak trees in forests near the Mediterranean. Fortunately, it grows back and can be harvested periodically. 

Contemporary cork floors now are sealed with UV-cured acrylic or water-based urethane sealers. Neither water nor oil penetrates the sealer. What’s more, you literally are walking on air: Cork tiles contain 200 million air cells per cu. in.

Traditionally, cork floors have been made from 12-in. sq. tiles, up to 5/16 in. thick, in the familiar honey color. Those tiles are still available, but manu- facturers have broadened their offerings. ContempoCork has tiles in more than a dozen stain colors. KorQinc makes a striped plank in a choice of two color duos, as well as tiles and moldings. AmCork offers cork flooring in more than 30 patterns and colors. And now two companies, BHK and KorQinc, produce cork flooring in a glueless tongue-and-groove plank.

Because of cork’s thirsty, expansionist tendencies, moisture is the crucial concern. In areas with wide variations in humidity, experts recommend installing cork floors at the driest time of year. After installation, cork floors should be finished with the manufacturer’s recommended sealer to ensure that the edges of the tiles or planks are sealed thoroughly. To keep them clean, damp-mop water-based urethane finishes with a water-and-vinegar solution.

SOURCES: CORK

PROS

Resilient, less break-age of dropped items, comfortable underfoot, warm, “green” material, durable, moderate cost, sound and thermal insulator, hypoal-lergenic, simple care

COST

$5-$9 per sq. ft., material only

CONS

Limited color/style selection, can fade, can dent, finish mainte- nance required, characteristic odor

VINYL

Abstract de-signs in hundreds of colors. Made from natural ingre- dients, linoleum comes in subtle patterns that don’t try to mimic anything. Marmoleum’s products also include fancy prefab border strips.

LINOLEUM

What it is: a product manufactured from natural, renewable resources, including linseed oil, wood flour, ground limestone, pigments and resins, and backed by jute fiber. Its components, in combination, have both antistatic and bactericidal qualities.

What it is not: vinyl (PVC).

Vinyl pushed linoleum aside in the 1960s because then it required waxing to keep it looking good, while vinyl didn’t. Today’s linoleum doesn’t need waxing because it comes presealed and also can be resealed.

Vinyl ranges from tame to wild. A perpetual top performer in the kitchen, vinyl is durable and inexpensive, and it’s available in a multitude of colors and patterns.

Vinyl flooring, which bounded into homes in the 1960s, works great in the kitchen and remains a popular choice today.

Hartford, Conn., praises Congoleum’s Ultima line, which comes in 12-ft. widths (the old vinyl standard was 6 ft.). Material width may be a material factor in your kitchen. Ask where the seams will fall.

Armstrong’s new residential-flooring introductions “have added texture to color and pattern as the third element of design,” says Deb Esbenshade, Armstrong’s general manager of product styling and de- sign. The company’s recent sheet-vinyl products resemble stone, tile, concrete and even crocodile. Maintenance: There is some, but not much. As with wood floors, the culprits are outdoor grit and pebbles that are likely to scratch the finish or to become embedded. Sweep, damp mop, and follow manufacturers’ recommendations about cleaning products.

Forbo Marmoleum, $5.50-$8.50 per sq. ft., installed; Armstrong Marmorette, $3.75 per sq. ft., material only

PROS

Resilient, comfortable, enormous variety, tough, wears well, low cost, works in most site conditions, good warranties, simple maintenance, non-absorptive

CONS

Can fade or yellow, pattern can wear off, seams can lift or intrude visually

Ranges from $1.25 to $5.50 per sq. ft., material only

In the United States, Forbo Industries (Marmoleum) and Armstrong (Marmorette) market linoleum for residential use. Marmoleum’s sheet product is 6 ft. 7 in. wide, and its tiles are 13 in. sq. The product is available in more than 150 colors/patterns and 13 borders. Or you can create your own design, to be precision-cut using water-jet technology and inlaid by the in- staller. Armstrong’s Marmorette is produced in 6-ft. wide sheets and is available in 16 colors.

Remember the phrase “ ... wears like iron”? It describes not only some drab garment that probably itched, but also lively linoleum. Maintenance? Be as ecofriendly as the product itself, using a pH- neutral cleaner. Follow manufacturers’ guidelines.

VINYL

Inlaid patterns are consistent throughout the thickness of the material. They last longer than those patterns printed on the top surface only, which can wear off. So inlaid costs more. Products differ mostly in the composition of the top, or wear, layer. The tougher and more resistant, the longer the life expectancy of the product; also, the better the warranty. Many wear layers now are impregnated with aluminum oxide and nylon. At least a dozen companies with high brand recognition provide top products. 

PROS

Environmentally friendly, antiallergen, antistatic, resilient, comfortable, durable, tiles are a good DIY choice, large color selection, simple care

CONS

Pricier up front, seams can intrude visually, harder to find installer

CERAMIC

Mosaic-tile floors that have been excavated in Piazza Armerina, Sicily, are 1,800 years old. How’s that for durability? The Porcelain Enamel Institute groups tiles in categories (I to IV+), indicating increasing durability. Durability is a function of a tile’s hardness, and of the sheen and color

The look of stone without the cost. The latest offerings from manufacturers include stone look-alike tiles that come in a broad variety of colors and sizes. The vitreous choices are harder and less absorbent than the stone they resemble. 

of any glaze. (Light-color glazes are more durable than dark, for example.) Kitchens usually need a group III or higher tile. Choose a tile with good slip resistance. Unglazed tiles are less slippery than glazed tiles. Any tile with a slightly textured surface provides greater traction than a smooth tile. The texture shows dirt less; too much texture, however, inhibits cleaning.

Tiles that mimic stone in their texture and have mottled col- oration are popular now. Many of these tiles are porcelain prod- ucts, fired at temperatures so high that they are vitreous. This process renders them harder than the slate, granite, marble or limestone they resemble. They are extremely dense and absorb little water, meaning you can continue your kitchen flooring out- side the house. And these tiles are made in sizes larger than pre- vious standards, up to 18 in. sq. The larger the tile, the more expansive your kitchen space reads.

Recycling has entered the world of tile. EcoCycle is a porcelain tile made of unfired, reclaimed raw materials, byproducts of Crossville Ceramics’ manufacture of standard-color porcelain tile. Before EcoCycle, these byproducts were discarded.

Care/maintenance: Follow the manufacturers’ specs regarding sealer (type and frequency of application) on the tile you select. Use the recommended grout and seal it. Clean with diluted household cleanser and hot water; rinse thoroughly.

STONE CERAMIC AND STONE

If you value an original more than a copy, consider stone: granite, limestone, slate, soapstone. Stone retains heat (remember those early bed warmers?), making a stone floor

a fine installation over radiant heat or in passive-solar situations. We know it’s durable, and it is low maintenance.

Soapstone sends a worn, venerable message; black absolute granite sends a polished, sophisticated one. Rustic stone tiles

with slightly irregular dimensions will look their best with wider grout lines. Crisply machined stone tiles, such as the soapstone floors from Green Mountain Soapstone, have edges accurate enough to require no grout. Just butt them together. Seal any stone except soapstone. A stone supplier can recommend the best sealer. Maintain your floor with a pH-neutral cleaner but nothing that leaves a soap film, which traps dirt.

PROS

Durability and hardness, enormous variety, simple care, environmentally friendly, no staining or fading, good over radiant heat, moderate cost

CONS

Less comfort-able underfoot, hardness means break-age of dropped items, cold, noisy, grout can stain or crack

MOST VENDORS OF CERAMIC TILE CARRY STONE TILES

Soapstone

Ceramic tile: $1.50-$8 per sq. ft. Stone tile: Typically $5-$16 per sq. ft.

EcoCycle ceramic tile

Slate

Granite

Marble

Fresh Air Into Your Bathroom

Breathing Fresh Air Into Bathroom

Ventilation

Powerful, quiet exhaust fans and their smart switches have made it easy to avoid mold, mildew, and stale air in the bathroom.

BY SCOTT GIBSON

Bathroom fans have been around as long as their owners’ reluctance to use them. Like a low-flying jet, early generations of bathroom fans were so loud they could rattle your teeth. So people left them turned off, mirrors steamed up, and bathroom walls glistened with condensation.

In an older house without much insulation and with a row of drafty windows, the bathroom typically would dry before the bad stuff started—but not in a new house. Contemporary houses are built to be tight, with low-infiltration windows and walls packed with insulation that stops drafts cold. That’s good news for your heating and cooling bills, but it’s bad for unventilated bathrooms, which now are prone to mold, poor indoor-air quality, and structural damage from long-term moisture exposure.

The good news is that the latest bathroom exhaust fans are so quiet that you barely can hear them. Homeowners can choose from self-contained models that mount in the ceiling or wall, or from remote units that mount some distance away from the bathroom and can draw air from more than one inlet. In addition to features such as built-in lights and heaters, exhaust fans can be controlled by circuitry that cycles the blower on and off in response to humidity levels in the room.

QUIET, POWERFUL,

AND SOPHISTICATED

A single well-designed fan installation can solve whole-house ventilation problems by removing moisture from multiple sources.

Choosing the right fan comes down to two considerations: how much noise the fan makes and how much air it moves.

Start by choosing the right fan size

For bathrooms up to 100 sq. ft. with an 8-ft. ceiling, an exhaust fan should move 1 cubic foot of air per minute (cfm) for each square foot of floor area. A 70-sq.-ft. bathroom, for example, requires a fan rated for no less than 70 cfm—enough to change the air in the room eight times an hour.

In bathrooms larger than 100 sq. ft., the rule of thumb is based on the number and type of fixtures the fan will serve. Enclosed water closets, showers, and bathtubs each require 50 cfm of fan capacity, while a jetted tub needs 100 cfm. Separate exhaust outlets over each of the fixtures or a single exhaust point that handles the entire bathroom can provide ventilation. Exhaust intakes should be away from air-supply ducts, and bathroom doors should have a 3/4''. gap at the bottom so that makeup air can enter the room.

Fan-capacity recommendations assume the fan will move the amount of air that it’s rated for, but that’s not always the case. Manufacturers arrive at cfm ratings by testing fans against 0.1 in. of static pressure. This rating assumes a nearly ideal installation: a short, straight run of rigid duct and a cap that doesn’t restrict airflow. If your installation will require a duct run longer than 12 ft., more than one elbow, or flexible duct, you should check the manufacturer’s recommendations and increase the fan size accordingly.

Surface-mounted fans serve a single exhaust outlet

Ceiling-mounted fans are designed to draw air through a single port and exhaust it through a cap in the roof or wall. Installation is relatively simple because the fan and grille are one unit. Capacities typically start at 50 cfm (the minimum required by code in a bathroom without an operable window) and range upward to about 400 cfm. Prices begin at about $100 for quiet, Energy Star-rated models from manufacturers like Broan-Nutone and Panasonic. Pricier models have built-in lights and infrared or electrical-resistance heaters.

Installation guidelines

■ With a remote fan, use soft, flexible duct for the first 5 ft. to reduce fan noise.

■ Insulate ducts in unconditioned spaces to reduce condensation.

■ For ceiling-mounted fans, choose galvanized steel or PVC duct, which have less airflow resistance than flexible vinyl or aluminum.

■ Install a UL-listed fan in a shower stall or over a tub, and put it on a circuit protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter.

■ Ceiling inlets are more effective than wall inlets at gathering heat and moisture.

■ Always duct exhaust air outside through a cap, never into an attic or a basement.

Ceiling fans don’t need big plastic grilles. Broan-Nutone’s combination recessed light/fan mounts in the ceiling for easy installation. Available trim designs blend in with traditional lighting.

New-generation fans operate with less noise than the refrigerator in your kitchen, a noise threshold described as 1 sone.

Because warm, moisture-laden air collects at the ceiling, these fans expel it quickly. One disadvantage, though, is that ceiling fans can’t pick up exhaust air from more than one point. Bathrooms with separate water closets need an additional unit, and in large bathrooms, a high-capacity fan has to draw exhaust air relatively long distances. Bigger fans mean more noise and a larger grille in the ceiling.

In-line fans such as the bullet-shaped Fantech mount directly in the duct and offer installation options. They are capable of venting several areas.

American Aldes multiport fans have a separate port for each duct run. This model has two 50-cfm ports and a larger port capable of 100 cfm.

To mask the appearance of ceiling fans, Broan-Nutone recently developed a recessed light/fan combination with trims designed to match those of conventional recessed lights.

Wall-mounted fans are another option. Although they can be easier to install than a ceiling unit when remodeling, through-the- wall units typically generate more noise than ceiling units and also admit more noise from the outside. Moreover, drawing air from the wall instead of the ceiling is not as efficient. As a result, manufacturers generally don’t suggest them as a first choice.

The Watson by Tama-rack Technologies is mounted in a gable-end stud bay. A discrete exhaust vent slides through the siding to mate with the fan.

A roar or a whisper?

Noise levels for ceiling and wall-mounted fans are described in sones. Unlike the more familiar decibel scale, the sone

scale is linear: A 2-sone fan makes twice as much noise as a 1-sone fan.

Older fans or inexpensive models can reach 4 sones. Yet one of the new Broan-Nutone models and several Panasonic models are rated at less than 0.3 sones.

Noise levels, however, increase with fan capacity. For example, Panasonic’s 60-cfm WhisperCeiling model is rated at less than 0.3 sones, while its 290-cfm model has nearly five times the flow but also produces 2 sones of sound.

Sone ratings don’t apply to remote-mounted fans because there are too many installation variables at work.

SWITCHES MAKE THEM SMARTER

Remote fans can handle multiple pickup points

In large bathrooms or ones with separate water closets, remote fans have one big advantage: They can pull air from several grilles in different parts of the room, or even from adjacent bathrooms. And fan motors can be as far as 50 ft. from the grille, reducing noise.

There are several types. Cylindrical in-line fans, such as those made by Fantech and Con-tinental, are mounted in the duct. In a bathroom with two or more pickup points, connections are made in the duct before it reaches the fan housing. Rectangular multi-port models, such as those from American Aldes, have a separate port for each length of duct. Other types of remote fans, including those made by Tamarack Technologies, are installed against an outside wall.

Intake grilles on remote-fan systems are much smaller than ceiling-mounted fixtures, and versions with integral lights are available. Grilles can be installed in the shower or over the sink to collect moisture close to its source. Serving more than one pickup point with a single fan, however, means that all pickup points are either on or off. If a single remote fan is used for back-to-back bathrooms, for example, both will be ventilated even when only one is being used.

The right switch improves fan performance

Bathroom fans often are less effective than they could be because they are turned off too soon. The fan is switched off right after a shower, but most of the moisture is still in the room, clinging to the ceiling and shower walls and trapped in damp towels. Expelling moisture actually may take 20 to 30 minutes.

A variety of switches allows fans to run longer, or to cycle on and off automatically as they are needed.

Programmable switches like Tamarack’s Airetrak can be used to ventilate a whole house.

The simplest type is an electronic or mechanical timer programmed to keep the fan running for a set amount of time. Leviton’s version lets you select the running time with the push of a button. A variation is Energy Federation’s delay-off switch, which keeps the fan on after the switch is turned off. An adjustment screw behind the cover plate allows users to set the extended run time.

Automatic controls, such as Tamarack’s Airetrak, are more sophisticated, allowing a fan to be programmed to cycle on and off throughout the day. These controls are especially useful when the bathroom fan (typically a large remote fan) is used for whole-house ventilation to provide the 0.35 air changes per hour recommended by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers. A boost feature on some models temporarily increases fan speed when the shower or bath is used.

When the relative humidity reaches a preset level, this Tamarack Humitrak activates the fan.

Leviton’s timer switch shuts off automatically after a specified amount of time has elapsed.

Humidity-sensing switches turn on a fan whenever relative humidity reaches a preset level. An override switch allows the fan to be turned on regardless of humidity.

Finally, motion detectors can be used to power up a fan as soon as anyone enters the room, then turn it off after they leave.

Sources