Search This Blog

Friday, October 7, 2011

Optimizing Your Garage Space


As we start getting into fall, the anticipation for the winter season is already starting to grip homeowners. One of the more favored home improvement projects in the colder months is organizing your home and opening up some space. This even extends to areas like the shed, the terrace and, finally, the garage, which is an area rife with possibilities for space saving. Of course, the central question when thinking about this is what you use (or rather WANT to use) your garage for. Is it simply a depository for your car(s) and a snow shovel? Is it a space used for your tools? Knick-knacks? A second refrigerator? Bikes and sports equipment? Considering the ideas below, you might very well be able to fit all of these things into your garage…oh, and maybe your car.




  • ·         Clear Out: If it were summer or spring, it would be easy enough to put all the stuff in your garage in your driveway or your front lawn. Alas, in the colder months, you’d be better off putting it in a mudroom or any room that has some extra space for this stuff. Regardless, put all the clutter in a separate space and then clean your garage. A good sweep and mopping should do the job but also consider washing the walls, just to be thorough.

  • ·         Inventory: What do you have? It’s important to see what you already store in your garage before deciding how to store it and what else you’d like to put in there.  If you’re a handyman, it’s likely that you have a lot of tools that need to be at the quick and ready. If you have recreational and sports equipment, it could range from a kayak to hockey pads to fishing gear. Know what you have and know what is more important to have at the quick and ready. 

  • ·         Shelves: A major key to organizing is using every inch of space you have and in this, adding shelves to your walls is a major advantage. As for a DIY project, this is a mildly difficult task but not an enormous undertaking, though I still suggest hiring a home improvement professional to help with the planning and get an estimate, at the very least. Make sure that the shelves are properly supported and out enough to hold some containers, which you can use to store anything from sports balls to emergency supplies to beach games to loose washers and lug nuts.

  • ·         Pegs and Racks: It sounds like such a small thing but they make a huge difference. Sure, they’re perfect for hanging up coats and a pegboard is still one of the best things a tool hound can invest in and properly label but think bigger. You can hang a mesh bag for sports equipment from two pegs for easy access or place a latter on the wall. If you do it right, you can also use a system of pegs to hang your bikes on the wall. Racks serve a similar purpose and are perfect for shovels, skis and oars, amongst other things.

  • ·         Work Station: If you’re more mechanic-minded, you’ll want a good countertop, one that’s easy to clean and resistant to easy cuts, to work and properly clean parts. It’s essentially the same for a home-improvement enthusiast, though you would assumedly want a bigger countertop or table for any woodworking or remodeling project. Hang two or three medium-size cabinets above the station and two or three utility drawers underneath and you should have the perfect area to handle any job. Some of these can be bought largely pre-made but otherwise, I implore you to seek out a contractor or home improvement expert to help you with this project, as it involves a sizable amount of work and time.

There are other options, such as using your ceiling to house your kayaks or canoes, that are more specific but it’s enough to say that every blank wall should be seen as an opportunity for storage. At a recent job, I helped a musician turn his garage into a supply space for his instruments and his record collection, not to mention his wife’s and his bicycles. Nothing is impossible or too ambitious when it comes to these types of projects. It’s all a matter of whether you care enough about the use of your available space.    

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Prepping Your Paint Job


No matter how easy or hard the task, preparation is the key to a successful remodeling job or outdoor project, which is why I try to encourage consultation with and hiring of home improvement professionals while also embracing DIY. In the future, we’ll discuss plenty of jobs that need to be well thought out but let’s start with an easy one: Painting your interior walls.

There is the temptation to just hire a crew and have it done during the day when you’re at work, but then there’s that nostalgic image of you and your partner in your own home, painting the walls together. In the latter case, you should take the steps suggested below as a way to ensure your paint job, certainly the most aesthetically noticeable facet of your interior, is done in a professional manner.




  • ·      Strip, Scrape, Remove: Any and all left over wallpaper and/or peeling and cracked paint should be removed. Use a scraper gently to get rid of the old paint, wallpaper and adhesive resin. If you’re dealing with old woodwork with bad finish, you’ll have to get some paint-stripping gel to remove paint and other debris.

  • ·      Repair and Patch: Unless your home is brand new, you will likely have a few cracks and holes that should be rectified. It’s worth it to get a quick consultation from a contractor to see if there are any foundation problems or if you’ll need professional help dealing with a bigger crack. Otherwise, clean and dampen the spot before using a putty knife to fill in any holes and cracks; if working with wood, use wood filler instead of joint compound. On bigger holes, cover the hole with two small pieces of joint tape before covering it with joint compound.  

  • ·      Sandpaper: Get yourself some fine-grade sandpaper and sand the entire area that you will be painting. This not only helps smooth down rough, incongruous areas but also boosts adherence for the overall paint job. For glossy areas, use a light-duty liquid de-glosser or TSP powder mixed into some hot/warm water. Rinse the wall and let it sit for a day before moving forward.  

  • ·      Clear Out: Take any easily moveable objects (lamps, end tables, coffee tables, small chairs, etc.) and put them in another room. Anything too big or too inconvenient to move, gather into a huddled mass in the middle of the room and cover with a tarp or an ample length of plastic sheathing. Tape it down. Finally, cover the floors as best as possible with plastic sheathing or plenty of newspaper.

  • ·      Tape Up: Buy yourself two rolls of painter’s tape from a local handyman or home improvement store – trust me, it comes in handy. Cover up your light switches, doorknobs, handles, locks, and any other minor thing that would be a pain to remove and you don’t want to have splatter marks on. The tape will also be needed when you paint the trim.

  • ·      Last Clean: Do one more full clean before getting to the fun (and exhausting) part. Vacuum the entire room and dust off every area that will be painted. If your room happens to be a kitchen or bathroom, you should do one more wash with TSP mix. If you encounter mildewed areas, mix the TSP (about three ounces) with hot water (no less than three quarts), chlorine (one quart) and detergent (one ounce). Let it all dry for at least 12 hours or, to be double sure, a full 24.


Sit down and think about exactly what you want out of the look of your room. Consult with your partner and/or family and talk with the employees at your local home improvement supplies store about what brand of paint and/or primer to purchase. For my nephew’s room, for instance, I recently used forest green and had a close artist friend come in and paint a mural over it about a month afterwards. As tiresome as it can be, these are the jobs that I have the most fun with, usually enlisting at least one close friend, a good radio station and a few refreshments for the day. Not all of these projects have to feel like work. 

Monday, October 3, 2011

Looking into Lady Caves

The term “mom cave” is an unfortunate bit of vernacular. Let’s forget, for the time being, that not all female homeowners are moms and focus rather on the innumerable interests that women indulge in when they want some time alone away from their job, their partner, their everyday struggles and, yes, their children. As much as most men need their man caves, most women are in dire need of a similar lady caves that speaks to their unique identity and their loves. And men, take note: This is the sort of project that could earn you major points and, depending on your home, can be a DIY affair. Whether you’re putting together a space for yourself or for your partner, you should consider the ideas below when looking into the home improvement concerns that often surround the building of a lady cave.




  •    Finding Your Space: A garage is often the best space for caves. If you want to conserve space, you can put up a simple divider and have spaces for both you and your partner to enjoy some alone time. The garage door is also an easy entrance.  If you don’t have space in your garage (or don’t have one), consider utilizing a guest bedroom, the basement, or the attic and transforming part of or the entire space into a lady cave.  You could also hire or consult with a contractor to build a small cabin or shed in your backyard or put on an addition. In which case, be sure to call your local municipality and check about any permits needed.
  •   Practical Concerns: You will want electricity in this lady cave, if only for lighting. In the home, this is simple but if you do have a separate structure, consider purchasing a small generator or running an extension cord from your home and disguising it tastefully. There’s also the natural light option, enacted simply by putting in a window. Think about color schemes and furniture. Do you want to be a place where you could take a nap or is it all activity? Consider putting a futon in the space or if you want to be more stylish, a chaise lounge. If you are doing this for your partner, it’d be best to spoil the surprise at this point and see what they’d like the space to look like. 
  •   Get Together Your Theme: Here’s where things get fun and, just maybe, a bit pricey. What do you want this space to be fitted for? Are you a nut for a mind-clearing run on the treadmill or do you want a quiet space to dig into the latest New York Times best seller? Take a look at some of these popular ideas.


a.     Reading/Writing/Sewing – First, put in a large bookshelf. Maybe put a few pictures of loved ones and sentimental knick-knacks on the shelves that haven’t been filled with books. Also, find a nice, modest desk, a lamp and a comfortable chair if you’d like to write in your diary or take some quicknotes. Throw up a few framed photos of your favorite quotations or inspirational figures for character. For an accomplished sewer, have a ready basket of yarn, replacement needles and other needed utensils.

b.     Exercising – This would ideally be in the house but if it is in a separate structure, be sure to consult a contractor about how much energy you will require. An elliptical bike or treadmill facing a small television is a great first step, but you may also think about adding a set of weights or some space for a yoga mat and inflatable abdominal ball. Throw in a scale and a dry-erase board to track progress or set schedules and you should be ready to go.

c.      Sports/Entertainment: One would think this would be something for a living room but tastes clash. This option tends to be a bit pricier, considering you’ll want a nice television and an extra cable box. Put in a small shelving unit for your favorite DVDs and Blu-rays, and maybe hang a vintage movie poster or a cast photo. For sports fans, cover the place with your team colors, banners and other fanfare. You’d do well to have a micro-fridge in there for snacks and drinks too.  

d.     Gardening: This one is a bit more complicated but doesn’t require as much space and is well worth it for the seasoned gardening enthusiast. Talk to a plumber or contractor about setting up a pair of deep sinks with some counter space and cabinets to hold any chemicals or seeds. Put up racks on the wall for your gloves, hats, coats and various utensils. Stock the place with extra pots and a small bookshelf for any gardening books you regularly use. Hang a few plants for mood and you should be ready to start growing.   

The materials for building a small cabin on your own or shed usually comes in between $1200 and $1600. The option of hiring a contractor is always favorable, if you can spare the funds, and this also insures that any issues with energy or water will be hassle-free. Regardless, this tends to be a favored project amongst my close friends and customers.

Most people look for something closer to the Reading/Writing/Sewing option but having recently seen one, I can attest that a gardening cave can be a lively and comforting space to call your own. But think outside the box about what you would really like to do with your free time. Your personal corner of the world should speak directly to you, your wants and your needs.  

Is Your Old Wiring Safe?




Is Your Old Wiring
Safe?
Inspect the electrical panel and exposed wiring to identify safety risks and upgrade options
BY CLIFFORD A. POPEJOY

Some materials used in old houses are better than their modern counterparts, like three-coat plaster versus drywall. When it comes to electrical wiring, though, older does not mean better. Electrical materials and safety devices have improved considerably over the past century. Is old wiring safe? It may be. Or it may present a shock, electrocution, or fire hazard due to deterioration from age, poorly executed modifications, or lack of capacity to meet modern power demands. Older wiring that’s in good shape, however, can continue to serve, and selective upgrades can be used to meet today’s needs.
A visual inspection of the panel and exposed wiring is the first step in evaluating an electrical system. Although I can’t possibly describe everything that could go wrong with old wiring and how to fix it, I can describe some of the signs of an electrical system that needs repair or replacement.
Get to know your old wiring
When electrical wiring first was installed in new homes, the wires were run on a series of porcelain knobs and tubes. In a knob-and-tube system, the splices were soldered and wrapped in electrical tape. Junction boxes, if there were any, were small.


125 YEARS OF ELECTRICITY IN HOMES
1879
Thomas Edison
invents the first practical lightbulb.
1896
An increasing number of fires caused by poor electrical installations leads to the development of the National Electrical Code (NEC).
1910's
Electric light begins to replace gaslight and kerosene lamps. Fuse boxes and knob-and-tube wiring are state-of-the- art. Houses that have electricity are supplied with 30 amps at 120v, and that’s plenty of power.


Armored cable, or BX, also was used in early electrical systems. Originally designed to protect the wires inside, the armor also acted as the grounding conductor in later versions of the cable.
Loomex, a predecessor of the nonmetallic (NM) sheathed cable used today, became available in the late 1920s. Nonmetallic cable first had only two wires with a tar-soaked cotton jacket. Later, a grounding wire and plastic sheath- ing were added. The insulation on the wires was made more heat resistant in 1984. This cable, used widely today, is labeled NM-B.
When current travels through a wire, the friction creates heat that can damage the wire’s insulation. Consequently, all wiring is protected by fuses or circuit breakers. In early electrical systems—5-, 20-, 25-, and 30-amp—Edison fuses provided this protection.
The second generation of over-current protection is the circuit breaker. A circuit breaker is a switch that senses when there’s too much current and opens, interrupting the circuit. The advantage of breakers is that they can be reset after the problem has been fixed. If a fuse melts, it has to be replaced. When I inspect old wiring, I begin at the fuse box or breaker panel.
First, inspect the panel
As greater demands were made on old electrical systems, fuses would melt due to overloads. People often installed an oversize fuse, or in- stalled a coin or metal slug to bypass the fuse and keep it from melt- ing. When I evaluate a fuse box, I take out each fuse and look for a coin or slug. If I find one, I know the wiring on that circuit probably is damaged and needs to be evaluated further before it can be deemed safe.
Likewise, if I find a bunch of 30-amp fuses in a box, there is a good chance the circuits are overfused. Thirty-amp or larger circuits are used for 240v appliances or for subpanel feeders, so there should be only a pair of 30-amp or larger fuses for each of these circuits. I also check the gauge of the wires on each circuit to determine if the fuse size is appropriate. If the homeowner intends to keep the fuse box as the main panel or as a subpanel, I install type-S inserts before I replace the fuses. The inserts make it impossible to install oversize fuses.
RED FLAGS IN THE FUSE BOX AND BREAKER PANEL
1 Coins or slugs behind the fuses. In this case, a penny is not a sign of good luck, but rather a sign that the wiring may have been damaged by the bypassed overcurrent protection.
2 Hacked panel covers. Circuit breakers are designed to work only in specific panels. To save money, mismatched and over- size breakers may have been installed, and the panel cover modified to fit.
3 Rust. On screws, wire, armored cable, or the box itself, rust is a sign of deterioration. Rust can create poor connections and potential safety hazards.
4 Melted wire. Exposed copper wire is dangerous because it can cause arcing, shock, and electrocution. Melted insulation is a sign of overheating.
Homeowners with newer electrical panels sometimes install over-size circuit breakers on overloaded circuits. Using the coffeemaker and toaster at the same time no longer trips the breaker, but it’s likely that the wiring has been overheated and damaged as well.
I’ve also found electrical panels missing covers. This makes resetting a breaker unsafe. And I’ve seen the cover notched to accommodate a breaker not designed for the panel. This is dangerous because breakers and panels work together as a system, and only breakers listed for use in a specific panel are acceptable. If the cover is missing or has been hacked up, I buy a new one or have a new one made, replace the mismatched breaker, and carefully inspect the wiring for that circuit.
Inside all electrical boxes, I look for rusted metal, melted plastic, exposed copper on the hot and neutral wires, and loose connections.
Look for failing wires


1920's
By the end of the decade, two-thirds of American homes have electricity.
1930's
Electrical appliances and tools are common. Armored cable (BX) comes into common use, but knob-and-tube wiring still is widely used. Service grows to 60 amps, 240v, and breakers start to replace fuses.
1940's
Postwar building boom accelerates changes. Loomex, a non- metallic (NM) sheathed cable, is used more widely. Knob-and-tube is phased out because installation is too labor-intensive.


After I inspect the fuse box or breaker panel, I look at all the accessible wiring, usually in the attic and basement. I check for signs of deterioration or of improper modification. If I find bare wire where the insulation has fallen off, or brittle insulation that will fall off soon, I know there’s a risk of shock, electrocution, and fire.
I inspect modifications to knob-and-tube wiring. Original splices should have a neat layer of friction tape and should be sup- ported by knobs on both sides. Non original splices should be made in electrical boxes. Open splices can fail and arc. The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not allow knob-and-tube wiring to be buried in insulation, although some jurisdictions do, as long as it has been inspected by an electrician and there is a sign warning that the wiring is present.
I begin my evaluation of armored cable at places where it’s exposed to moisture because rust is the most common cause of deterioration. I also make sure the fittings that connect the cable to electrical boxes are not rusted or loose. Rust and bad connections impair the grounding path. If I spot rusted cable, I test the quality of the grounding path with a spe- cial tester.
With NM cable, I first check to see if the sheathing is deteriorating or has been chewed by rodents. Then I look in a few boxes to see how
the grounding conductor is terminated. During the transition to grounded circuits, some electricians clipped off the ground wire or wrapped it back onto the sheath. If grounding outlets are installed in a system without a grounding wire, I replace the outlet with a non grounded or GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) receptacle.
Some NM cable installed in the 1960s had aluminum conductors. If I find branch circuits with aluminum wiring, I inspect all connections. Because aluminum expands and con- tracts, it can work itself loose. I make sure that all the switches and outlets are rated for aluminum wiring. I also look inside junction boxes and behind out- lets and switches. Looking in these areas, I can tell if past electrical work was done properly.
Rewire or upgrade?
After I inspect an electrical system, I have to decide whether to recommend rewiring the house or just doing selective upgrades. If much of the cable sheathing or conductor insulation is in bad shape, if there are no fixture boxes, or if testing shows poor connections, I recommend a rewire. If only one or two areas have deteriorating insulation and it looks as if the original installation and any modifications were well done, and the results of voltage-drop testing are acceptable, then selective replacement or upgrading is an option.
Folks often worry about non grounded circuits. If wiring is in good shape and grounded outlets aren’t needed—for three-prong plugs or surge protectors—these circuits are fine.
Older wiring and the small outlet boxes that often were used with it can be difficult to rework. If you need or want to add GFCI outlets, for example, you may find it difficult to install the GFCI in a small box without damaging the old wires. In this case, I install a junction box at a point where the original wiring is in good shape, and splice and run new cable to the outlet. If the outlet box is still too small, I remove the old electrical box and install an old-work box.
If a house’s wiring is in good condition but is overloaded, adding a few new circuits is the best solution. Installing new circuits to serve the kitchen-counter and bathroom outlets, computers, dishwashers, and garbage disposals takes a significant load off existing circuits and costs much less than rewiring the house.


THREE MYTHS ABOUT OLD WIRING
The design, materials, and installation techniques of older wiring are very different from today’s systems. As a result, there are many misconceptions about older wiring. Here are three of the most common myths:
Myth #1 Knob-and-tube wiring must be replaced
When the opportunity presents itself—during a remodelling project, for instance—I usually recommend replacing old wiring. Some insurance companies won’t issue new policies or will charge higher premiums for houses with knob-and-tube wiring. However, if it is inspected, proves to be in good condition, and meets your needs, there is no reason to rewire your house.
Myth #2 Old non grounding circuits are unsafe
Most new appliances, lamps, and tools have two-prong plugs that don’t need a grounded outlet. These two-prong plugs are double-insulated, reducing the chance of shock or electrocution and the need for a grounded circuit. What is unsafe is using an adapter to make a three-prong plug work in a non grounded outlet. If you need to plug in a surge protector or other grounded device, run a new circuit that has an equipment-grounding conductor.
Myth #3 GFCIs won’t work with old wiring
A GFCI receptacle will work fine in an old electrical system even if the circuits don’t have a grounding conductor. The GFCI self-test button will work, too. Because there’s no grounding conductor, though, a plug-in continuity tester won’t trip the breaker.


1950's
Grounding conductor is included in some cable. Grounding receptacles (three-hole outlets) appear, but it’ll be 20 years before their use is universal.
1960's
Plastic insulation is used on conductors in loomex. Fuses still are widely used for 15-amp and 20-amp branch-circuit overcurrent protection.
1970's
NM cable with plastic sheath and full-size grounding wire is introduced. GFCI protection is required for residential bathroom and garage receptacles. Circuit breakers become common.


If I’m adding new circuits, I have to decide if the fuse box or breaker panel has enough capacity and breaker spaces to handle new circuits. If the service is an original 120v, 30- or 60-amp fuse box or breaker panel, or if I need to add branch circuits to a fuse box, I recommend upgrading to a modern panel and 200-amp service. It is also time to upgrade the service when the load calculations show a demand larger than the existing service or when no space is available for new circuits. Finally, if the panel is rusted or if the hot buses are badly pitted, it’s time to upgrade. If all you need is one or two additional 20-amp circuits, and the panel has capacity and breaker space, there’s no reason to replace a panel just because it is old.
Looking at the condition of wires, and their supports and connections, is a big part of inspecting an old electrical system. If you inspect the wiring in your house and still have concerns, call an electrician who has expertise in old wiring and has the special equipment to test the safety and reliability of the circuits and overcurrent protection.


1980's
NM-B (high-temperature insulation) cable first appears. GFCI protection is required for kitchen-counter receptacles within 6 ft. of a sink.
1990's
GFCI protection is required for all kitchen-counter receptacles.
2000's
AFCI protection is required for all bedroom circuits.


SIGNS OF FAULTY WIRING AND BAD UPGRADES
1 Poor additions. Other than knob- and-tube, wires should be in a cable or conduit. Loose current-carrying wires are vulnerable to damage.
2 Missing electrical box. Switches, outlets, and splices should be installed with electrical boxes.
3 Chewed cable. Rodents can be a problem with nonmetallic cable. Chewed cable should be repaired or replaced.
4 Bad connections. During an inspection, all connections should be checked. Because the armor on this BX cable acts as the grounding conductor, a bad connection means poor or no ground.
5 Deteriorating sheathing. The insulation on old wiring can be brittle. Brittle insulation crumbles, exposing wires and creating a hazard. Small areas of deteriorating cable can be fixed; lots of deteriorating cable should be replaced.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Floor Resurfacing the Right Way

It’s an inescapable fact that the relatively simple task of resurfacing floors is often confused and considered interchangeable with the process of refinishing floors. Neither job is particularly pleasant but unlike refinishing, resurfacing is something that an ambitious amateur could undertake and likely succeed at. Here are some simple A-Z steps you can take to ensure that the job gets done right.





Prepping Your Room:

What’s the first thing a painter needs? A blank canvas! Any furniture or rugs should be moved out of the room you’re working on.  The smartest move would be to put it in another room but if you simply don’t have the space, rent a small moving truck or van for the day (U-Haul works fine). Once you’ve cleared the room, give it a solid sweeping and mopping. Be as thorough as possible to ensure a clean workspace.

The Buff ‘n’ Shine:

Now, it’s time to rent a buffer. Most day rentals for buffers hover around $30. Ask an employee to give you a general overview of how the machine works. It’s a relatively easy machine to work with but it’s also helpful to know how to maintain and clean it. Once you start buffering, be sure to go over the area at least two or three times. Depending on the size of the room, it will take you anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour to complete. Top it off with another good sweep.

Pick and Apply:

Waterborne finishes are safer and quicker than any other option, and they are more scratch resistant, making it a clear choice for pet owners. Waterborne finishers are also the most environmentally friendly finishes on the market (low on volatile organic compounds). Each waterborne coat takes only an hour to dry. You will have to apply more coats than with oil-based finishes but it’s worth it in the long run; three coats should be sufficient. When it’s fully dried, give the floor one last sweep and that’s that.

Hiring Out:     
Resurfacing is not a job that every person wants to roll up his or her sleeves for. Time restraints or the stress inherent in any home improvement project may make hiring a flooring specialist or contractor a more viable option for you. If so, consider these questions when interviewing prospective contractors.

1.     How long have they been in business? Over three years is best.

2.     Do they have a timetable? They should have a secure idea of the amount of time needed.

3.     How do they stand with past customers? Ask around and get an idea of their track record.

The job should not take longer than two days. Doing it yourself will run you anywhere from $100 to $200 while hiring a professional will run you anywhere from $300-500. When Click and Improve handles a job like this, we demand a pre-set schedule and price. So, you should expect the same if/when you hire a contractor or service provider.

Don’t be shy to call up a professional and ask about when it’s safe to move furniture back in, as it can vary depending on the finish. Once every thing is back in, you can admire and take pride in your floors, which should be ready for several more years of use and abuse.  

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Avoiding That Sinking Feeling


If I were to sit here and type out every option available when it comes to bathroom faucets, this post might run the length of Moby Dick. Technologies advance, trends change, and handymen, plumbers and contractors install new, uniquely designed sinks every single day. The choices of faucets are innumerable but the bathroom sink is a central part of the bathroom and home improvement professionals of all sorts will tell you that the days of everyone installing the same simple sink unit with a vanity mirror and cabinets underneath are over. There are new ways to save room, ensure a more modern and stylish design, and make cleaning a breeze. Here are three or four options to consider talking over with your local NYC plumber.







·      On the Wall: Sinks attached directly to the wall are becoming popular for several reasons, not the least of which being that they cut down on the instances of plumber’s crack. There’s a minimalist bent to this that makes it easy to see leaks and to keep your bathroom clean. It gives off a spacious look as well and allows you to think of new, fun ways to design storage for your hygiene and medical supplies. Bad news: You need to think about new storage ideas…now.

·      Vessels: Vessel sinks, which essentially sit on your countertop like a large bowl with a faucet, convey a sense of containment. This means less clipped hairs from shaving and excess water from washing on your countertop. They also look incredibly nice and personalized. They are also very large and take up a lot of the countertop. Investing in some reasonably priced, wall-mounted holders for your toothbrushes, soaps, floss can solve this problem, and face washes.

·      Consoles and Pedestals: Like the vessel sink, the console conveys a sense of personalized attention. The sink is attached to the wall but has a set of legs going to the floor that are used for support. They are very classy looking and it’s only slightly harder to clean than the wall sink. There are also pedestal sinks that essentially do the same thing but with one thick stand that offers support and is attached to the wall as well. If you do chose this one, be sure to discuss it with a plumber or home improvement professional, as pedestals are a bit harder to install.  

Any of these options are easy enough to plan with a plumber but you might consider undertaking this project while remodeling other parts of your bathroom and get it all done in one fell swoop. I am a huge fan of console sinks: They look classic and give the room a stylish yet open feeling. In fact, I recommended a console sink to my cousin last month and am happy to report that she just recently got one installed. She will not stop raving about it. But, as always, different strokes for different folks.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Job Closeout


Job Closeout
Finishing on schedule and within budget demands careful planning at the start by Stephen Mead


Like a bad dream, a prybar tumbled from the mantel in slow motion, shattering the Italian marble hearth below. This is exactly how a good job goes bad.
Blame it on poor communication. My company had been doing a large interior wood-working project. We were almost finished and anxiously looked forward to our next job, when the owner asked us to build a fireplace mantel. After sketching a few ideas on the wood subfloor, we agreed on a design and a price.
A week later, just as the second coat of varnish had begun to harden, the owner returned to inspect the project. With a look of horror on her face she told me that it was much too large. I started to motion toward our original sketch, but realized that it had vanished beneath the marble hearth that had been set the day before. We argued, but in the interest of a peaceful settlement, I agreed to change the size of the mantel. In my haste to make the change I guess I was careless: the prybar fell, and the nightmare began.
The tile setter informed me that it would take six weeks to get a new marble hearth. Weeks stretched out into months, however, and three months later a frustrated contractor— myself—received final payment less drywall, paint and marble repairs from an equally frustrated owner. There's an old saying among builders that all jobs reach 90% completion and then stay there forever. This job seemed to prove it. Why is it so hard to finish?
Starting out right—As builders, we focus most of our attention on getting and managing the work. As a result, we give too little thought to the final stages of the job. This lack of planning costs us dearly. We spend countless hours either correcting work that should have been done right the first time, or modifying designs that weren't quite right, or waiting months for light fixtures that we thought we'd get right away. This excruciating process of trying to finish is called "job closeout."
The firm that I work for recently studied job closeout. We discovered that we spend 20% of a typical project's overhead on the final 5% of the work. A marketing survey also showed us that our inability to finish jobs promptly affected our clients' perceptions of us. They likened a contractor who spends too much time onthejobtoachildwhowon'tleavehome.In other words, our poor performance at job close-out was costing us money and references. We discussed the problem with clients, subcon- tractors, accountants, architects, engineers—even our spouses—and concluded that the real trick to finishing on time is getting started properly. That means scheduling intelligently and taking time to educate clients and sub-contractors about the job schedule and the building process. It also means actively managing quality at all stages and controlling the final punch list (a list of items to be corrected or completed before the job is considered complete). The big payoff comes at the end because the more time you spend up front, the easier it is to finish.

There's an old saying among builders that all
jobs reach 90% completion and then stay there forever.

Setting and managing schedules—It is said that time expands to meet a task. If you're given four weeks to complete a project requiring two weeks of work, you'll generally finish in four weeks. Most of us put things off until we're forced to meet a deadline, and that's why scheduling is so important.
Scheduling involves estimating the time needed for various tasks and then setting realistic deadlines. On large commercial projects, several employees do nothing but keep track of the job schedule. But good scheduling is as important for the small builder as for the large one, because the efficient use of time can mean the difference between profit and loss. We make scheduling part of our standard job start-up checklist.
The start-up checklist. This simple form can be adapted to fit a particular job or builder. Organizing routine tasks leaves the builder free to focus on the more complicated aspects of a project.


JOB START-UP CHECKLIST                      


ITEM DATE


1. Set up project directory 
2. Set up files 
3. Project schedule
4. Job buyout 
5. Write subcontracts/purchase order 
6. Accounting budget 
7. Order long lead items 
8. Job meeting
9. Temporary utilities/telephone
10. Trash hauling/dumpster 
11. Job sign 
12. Change order system
13. Requisitions


Making a schedule forces you to build the job mentally and to solve problems early. To schedule successfully, you need to understand the project from start to finish. Separate each task, determine the time involved, and try to develop an understanding of how each part of the job relates to the others. Ask your subcontractors how long their work will take. If sub-contractors aren't available, you can use published estimating guides to estimate production rates. 
A good schedule lets everyone anticipate the future. We use a bar-chart schedule. The bar chart helps you decide when to order materials, and how to most effectively schedule manpower. It also makes potential scheduling conflicts easy to spot. 
To be effective, a schedule should be optimistic, yet realistic. Build extra time into your schedule for bad weather, delivery delays and inspection problems. Professional estimators call this "float," and it gives you flexibility in getting tasks completed. After estimating the total length of the job, subtract two weeks from it. Everyone will finish early, and you'll have two weeks to handle inspections, push stragglers and clean up.
After setting the final schedule, manage it aggressively. Make sure all deadlines are met. When sub-contractors fall behind, ask them to add more workers, or to work weekends. As a last resort you may have to bring in other sub-contractors to help complete the work (you may want to include a clause in your original contract that lets you charge the original sub for any extra expenses). The idea is to manage time so that it doesn't expand.
Educating the players—We've found that most jobs go much more smoothly  if our clients understand the construction process, so we hold a preconstruction meeting with clients and architect. Some clients know just enough to make them dangerous. For example, even though I've hung hundreds of doors, I had one client tell me I was doing it wrong—they had seen a brother-in-law do it differently. A pre-construction meeting lets you determine how much your clients know about the job and about construction. It also allows you to educate them about the problems you're likely to encounter. But keep in mind that most people don't speak the language of construction. For instance, most people won't know what you mean by "coping" a piece of trim; it's better to explain the process in simple, everyday language. The goal is understanding.
We typically start with the plans, taking our clients on a guided tour of the project. We "walk" them through each room, reviewing details, elevations and sections, and making final material choices (many jobs are delayed simply because the clients can't make up their minds). It's tedious and time-consuming, but it can head off many potential problems.
This is also a good time to review the clients' expectations. Few people seem to understand that there are different levels of craftsmanship, that painted wood trim doesn't demand as much care or time as stained architectural millwork. We use photos of our previous work, drawings, magazine photos and actual mock- ups (of trim or hardware, for instance) to show how things will look.
Clarifying expectations at the beginning will help minimize midstream design changes. Doing so is crucial, because even simple changes can have a profound effect on job completion. Changes not only raise costs; they can also lower quality. We've found that we get the best quality on the jobs with the fewest changes.
Tradespeople take pride in their work when they do it right the first time. When a client demands that something be taken apart and built differently, job morale can head downhill, dragging craftsmanship with it. We discourage change orders by charging aggressively for them, and by making it clear that the client must compensate us for overhead if excessive changes make the job run over schedule.
Finally, it's a good idea to spend time reviewing the job schedule with clients. Clarify which items, if any, they'll have to coordinate, and include these in the schedule. Permits and surveys are often handled by clients, as are utility fees and deposits. Beware of the client who lacks a sense of urgency. Set dead-lines together and strive to meet them.
The next step is to hold a final meeting with subcontractors. Again, review the job schedule and ask for delivery information on materials. We note this information in a project control log. This is simply a document that contains information on materials, such as what was ordered, when, and from whom. It's kept with the job schedule. The preconstruction meeting with the subcontractors is a good time to review policies on billing, change orders, punch-list items and payments. We require all subs who work with us to attend this meeting.
Defining and maintaining quality—A big part of getting finished is reducing repairs. This requires an ongoing quality control effort.
Each day our superintendents walk the job like detectives, checking and rechecking the work. We also try to anticipate problems before they occur. Will that outlet be in the way of the backsplash? Are the doors undercut properly and sealed to prevent warping? We pay particular attention to details, such as roof flashing, foundation waterproofing and drainage, backfill and compaction, that can cause big problems later on if not done right.
Before hiring new subcontractors, make sure that they meet your standards. Check their references, ask their suppliers if they pay their bills, and try to determine if they're eager to do a quality job. Remember, you are ultimately responsible for their work. Enforcing high standards early will improve the overall quality of the project and reduce repair and warranty problems.
Packaging the results—Finishing a construction project means tying up a lot of loose ends. To help with this process, we've developed a job closeout checklist (chart below). We also assemble all maintenance information, equipment warranties, guarantees and installation information. We package these and other important documents—including the names, addresses and phone numbers of all subcontractors used on the job—in a three- ring binder. During the final walk-through, we turn the binder over to the client, along with the rolled-up construction drawings. Our clients are impressed by such attention to detail and are much less likely to call us later with minor questions.



Tying up loose ends. 
A closeout checklist can make the end of a job much smoother. Note the amount of documentation delivered to the owner. 
This includes information on cleaning and maintaining appliances and materials.

ITEM DATE

Preliminary punch list 
Request to subs for owner documents 
Request to subs for final invoice 
Final inspections Certificate of Occupancy 
Documentation to owner
  Equipment warranties  
  Subcontractor list
  As-built drawings
  Outstanding change orders 
  Keys 
  Certificate of Occupancy Final release
Punch-list sign-off 
Subcontractor change orders 
Store job records 
Materials Equipment transfers 
Sub final release and lien waiver 
Job closeout report


Controlling the punch list—After the final walkthrough, there's still one hurdle: the punch list. This is a list of problems that must be corrected before the job is considered complete. Paint touch-up, hardware adjustments and final cleanup are standard punch-list items. It sounds simple enough, but a poorly managed punch list can turn into a builder's nightmare.
Part of the problem is human nature. Once subcontractors leave a job, they feel that their work is complete. Bringing them back to make repairs can be difficult, particularly if they did their work early in the project. To overcome this resistance, discuss the punch list with subs during the preconstruction meeting. Make it clear that they have a set period of time after receiving the punch list to make their corrections (two weeks works well for us), and that if they're unable to do so you'll hire someone else—and charge them accordingly.
Clients can also be a problem. Some clients see the punch list as their last chance to make changes or remedy design problems. For this reason, you'll need to set some standards early. Ask the clients to be specific about punch-list items, and keep changes separate. Don't allow general notes like "touch up paint as re-quired." Fixing something "as required" can take days, weeks, even years.
The gist of all this is that you need to control the punch list, rather than letting it control you. On most jobs, the client and architect assemble the punch list, then hand it over to the contractor. But we always insist on participating in the process. Many punch-list items are misunderstandings that can be easily resolved. For instance, one client complained that a wall had been built in the wrong place. We explained that we had to move the wall to clear a heating duct leading to the second floor. The problem never made it to the punch list. And because most punch-list problems are simply a matter of paint touch-up, cleaning or final adjustment, we try to include in the walk-through a painter, cleaner and carpenter in the punch-list party. This lets us solve many problems on the spot.
It's important that the punch list be written down and that it be understood by everyone. When the punch list is complete, a copy of it should go to each of your subcontractors. On larger jobs, we use stick-on circles, like the ones used in grocery stores, to show exactly where the punch-list items are. The circles help direct each trade to the problems they need to deal with.
A former boss of mine once said that the trick to finishing is to be both cop and psychologist—in short, to do anything necessary to get the job done. You may step on some toes in the process, but you'll have happier clients, a thicker wallet and fewer nightmares.